"The point is to achieve a complete experience, which provides new knowledge as well as authentic emotions" -Rok Klancnik of the World Tourism Organisation

TRAVELLERS' IMPERATIVES are undergoing a radical change. The concerns of yesteryear - whether looking for seat-pitch or five-stars - have been shouldered aside by the all-important subject of security.

The tragedies in New York, Bali and Kenya have ensured that holidaymakers are now choosing their destinations with extreme caution. Travelers are thinking twice about what may constitute a soft target, and heading for more off-the-beaten-track or unusual destinations. With few exceptions, travelers are still taking to the seas and skies - either refusing to be daunted by the threat of terrorism or taking the fatalistic attitude that a bomb could go off anywhere in the world, even at home.

Jon Stonham, chief executive of hotel reservations Web site asia-hotels.com, says: "Last year was our 'annus horribilis' but this November our bookings were up 15 per cent on 2000, and 50 per cent on 2001. There's an upsurge of interest in countries such as Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, and China because their security is perceived to be especially tight. There's an element of risk in going to Bali and the Philippines, but if you stay away from places such as Kuta and Mindanao, it's not going to be any more dangerous than anywhere else."

But there are several other distinct new trends, according to Rok Klancnik, of the Madrid-based World Tourism Organisation (WTO). "There is a higher demand for specialized holidays, as markets mature and advanced information technology makes greater customization possible, says Klancnik. "We're also seeing a shift-perience'. In fact, tourism is simply following in the footsteps of other types of consumption. The point is to achieve a complete participative experience, which provides new knowledge as well as authentic emotions."

A prime example of this is Skyros (www.skyros.com), one of the leading advocates of holistic holidays, which takes its name from the Greek island in the Aegean Sea and runs more than 200 courses both there and on Koh Samet in Thailand. You can learn to sail, brush up on your cookery, indulge in yoga classes or try your hand at short stories, with tuition conducted by noted experts in their field.

Participants are free to take part in as much or as little as they wish, but what really makes Skyros hum is the friendly community atmosphere. Days start with informal group discussions in which people share their feelings, and the ethos of learning together promotes some tremendous social gatherings in the evening.

Holidaymakers are also looking for new horizons, according to Graham Elsom, managing director of Concorde Travel in Central. "As well as traditional long-haul destinations such as New Zealand and South Africa, people are also venturing further afield, to the Middle East in particular," he says. "Egypt is back on the menu again, which is ironic considering it was a no-go area at one stage, and we are also seeing some interest in Iran and Syria. But the hottest destination is without doubt Dubai, partly as it makes a good stopover on the way back to Europe. It's helped by its flag carrier, Emirate Airlines, which has a very good name, plus more international hotel groups such as Shangri-La and Aman Resorts are opening there."

Regarded as the most-user friendly of the United Arab Emirates (dubai-tourism.co.ae), in additional to its natural combination of sea, sun and a great deal of sand, Dubai has relentlessly promoted its shopping opportunities. While nightlife is not Bangkok - or Berlin-standard, there's a host of restaurants and bars, but the after-hours entertainment of choice is a wadi bashing trip through the desert aboard a four-wheel drive ending at a tended camp with a barbecue under the stars and a belly dancer providing the post-dinner entertainment.

Ecotourism still ranks high among travellers' priorities and it would be hard to find a more eco-friendly activity than dolphin swimming, which appeals to people of all ages. Hector's Dolphin is one of the smallest and rarest in the world, and schools of them frequent the sheltered Akaroa Harbour (blackcat.co.nz) near Christchurch on New Zealand's South Island all year round. Travelling out by jet-powered catamaran, all you have to do is don wetsuit and snorkel and in minutes you're smack in the middle of a Kodak Moment as the dolphins weave and dive around you in the water.

More traditional forms of adventure holidays are becoming increasingly popular in South America, specifically at Machu Picchu in Peru. "This is one of the most stunning architectural locations on Earth - an essential once-in-a-lifetime trip for everyone." Says Alfredo Valencia Zegarra, who has written extensively on the 500-year-old site. The Inca trail that leads up to the ancient and awe-inspiring citadel is a hard slog up passes that top 4,200 metres, but it runs through amazing scenery that includes stunted cloud forest and grassy uplands as well as scores of fascinating ruins.

Closer to Hong Kong, both the mainland and Vietnam are widely perceived to be untainted by security worries, and new destinations are opening up all the time (www.chinats.com). "More travelers are going to both the PRC and Vietnam, and looking at getting out of the main destinations, to places that have seen fewer tourists in the past," says Paveena Olansuksakul of the Bangkok-based Pacific Area Travel Association.

Smaller cities such as Kaifeng on the mainland play host to a number of remarkable antiquities including the 13 storey octagonal Iron Tower erected in 1049 during the Northern Song dynasty, and the 1,400-year-old Grand Xiangguo Monastery. And in Jiayuguan on the fringe of the Gobi Desert, recently excavated graves dating back nearly 2,000 years and covered with intricately painted frescoes have been opened up to the public.

The hinterland of Vietnam (vietnamadventures.com) is also gradually unraveling itself. While the coastal strip leading up from Ho Chi Minh City past Hue to Hanoi is firmly on the tourist beat, improved infrastructure has prised open areas such as Pleiku, tucked deep in the central highlands, which are still populated by ethnic hill tribes.

Further south, Cat Tien is a 75,000 hectare national preserve, home to elephant, leopard, the gaur ox and the rare Javan rhino.

In stark contrast, a city break to St Petersburg in Russia (cityvision2000.com) - which celebrates its 300^th anniversary next year - couldn't be more different. Cited as the cultural capital of Russia and known as the "Venice of North", it has a lot more to offer than simply the Hermitage Museum and the Kirov Ballet, as evidenced by the rash of new chic shops and cafes. And the inhabitants, whether puttering about in Ladas or roaring along in sleek BMWs, regard themselves as the country's intelligentsia and are extremely welcoming to foreign visitors. "The imposing grandeur of St Peterburg's most impressive landmarks and the stylish sophistication of its residents make it one of the great urban centres of the world, and a must-visit in 2003," says Brian Vitunic, who wrote Fodor's guide to the city.

Touting an anniversary is one way to pull in the visitors, but tried-and-tested destinations are also having to look at new ways to attract paying guests. "Newly emerging destinations are prompting more established ones to rethink the design of their products," notes the WTO's Klancnik.

This could involve an extensive re-branding, or simply adding bigger and better facilities, which was the route taken by the Cedar Point (cedarpoint.com) amusement park in Ohio, US. Its US$25 million (HK$195 million) roller coaster Millennium Force opened last May, and is generally acknowledged as the most famous of the world's 200 scream machines. Top speed is 150km/h and the undoubted highlight is the 91-metre drop followed by a 122-degree overbanked curve. The best thing that can be said about 2,010-metre terror is that it's all over in two-and-three-quarter minutes.

Finally, one of next year's ultimate get-away-from-it-alls must rank as St Helena (sthelena.se). Stuck in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, its remoteness is its chief allure - no package tourists, unspoilt nature, and activities are limited to walking, sport fishing and diving, although there is an 18-hole golf course. It's possibly one of the safest places in the world, although that can never be guaranteed. Back in the early 1980s, a Canadian couple, convinced that Armageddon was upon them, picked the most remote spot they could find on the map - the Falkland Islands - and emigrated there. A short while later the Argentines invaded and the rest, as they say, is history.