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Town Crier
March 2003
Escape from Bangkok, p. 32-33
Lea Guerrero finds that fairways and spas rank above the usual
watery pursuits as Hua Hin's major draw.
"Where's the beach?" you might ask. It's there, alright,
but if you go to Hua Hin and stay at any one of its many resorts
you might not even notice the sea and sand. Sure, the town has a
long stretch of decent enough shore, but for most tourists who come
here, this is no longer top of the agenda.
But neither is all-night partying. Perhaps surprisingly - considering
that Thailand is known for its high-paced action and free-wheeling
nightlife. In contrast, Hua Hin is very, very laid back and relaxed:
it's a retreat, literally. Expect holidays here to be low-key and
peaceful, with none of the bustle and rowdiness of Thailand's more
popular tourist destinations.
Detoxifying
Yup, the place is a sleepy seaside resort town with a just passable
stretch of beach, but, it's also one of Thailand's most rapidly
developing tourist destinations. The reason? Fantastic golf and
equally fantastic spas. This small town has probably got the greatest
density of international level golf courses in the whole of Thailand,
and a whole menu of detoxifying treatments and massages, making
it the preferred destination of city folk looking to unwind with
a round of golf and a lot of pampering
Royal pampering, that is. Hua Hin is a vacation destination with
a pedigree. It owes its transformation from a small fishing town
into a classy resort to the Thai royal family; King Rama VII decided
that it would be an ideal vacation spot. The railway line that was
soon constructed made the town easily accessible from Bangkok, and
the rest of the developments that followed - the Railway Hotel in
1923 (now the wonderfully restored Sofitel Central), the Royal Hua
Hin Golf Course in 1924, and the king's Klai Kangwon (Far from Worries)
Palace in 1928 - ensured Hua Hin's position as the resort town of
choice for Bangkok's elite.
This is probably why, although its history as a popular retreat
dates back to more than 80 years, the town has remained relatively
uncommercialised when compared to Phuket, Pattaya, Koh Samui and
Krabi. Recently, however, Hua Hin's coastline has been somewhat
marred by unsightly 1990s condominium developments. Nevertheless,
the town continues at the slow pace for which it is known. Perhaps
it is in keeping with this relaxing atmosphere that the two major
tourist draws to this town are the golf and spas.
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How
to get there:
From Bangkok, Hua Hin takes 40 minutes by air and two to three
hours by car or bus. It can also be reached by train (travel
times vary).
When
to go:
The best time to go is from November to May. The town is busiest
during national holidays and weekends
Where
to stay:
Although Hua Hin is particularly known for its high-end resorts,
it actually offers lodgings that range from inexpensive guesthouses
to the extremely high-end picks.
Budget: Paradise Lodge, City Beach Resort
Mid range: Imperial Lakeview Hotel and Golf Club, Central
Village Hua Hin
High end: Sofitel Central Railway Hotel, Chiva Som
For a complete list of hotels in Hua Hin go to http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Hua_Hin_Cha-Am-Thailand.asp.
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Prestigious
Hua Hin is in fact a golfer's paradise. Green fees here are very reasonable,
and the fairways well-maintained, so golfers of all standards come
to enjoy the dozen or so courses at six clubs dotted in and around
town. There are a couple of prestigious courses, like the Royal Hua
Hin, Thailand's oldest, and Springfield, designed by Jack Nicklaus.
Some others like Palm Hills have international pedigrees and Bangkok
Milford, Majestic Creek, and Lakeview are just as good. Frequently,
the courses have clubhouses which offer a variety of other sports,
and some have hotels that ensure true addicts can eat, sleep and drink
the game.
Many of the hotels in Hua Hin are self-contained resorts that offer
a wide variety of activities so that guests need not stray too far.
In recent years, the most popular developments in Hua Hin have been
spas which have proven to be a favourite of stressed-out city folk
who visit at the weekends, as well as tourists just looking for relaxation.
Almost all the new hotels, including the Marriott, Evason and Hyatt,
have fully-equipped spas that offer complete range of treatments.
Spa Success
One hotel in particular that stands out is Chiva Som. Frequented by
celebrities, it has won Conde Nast's Best Destination Spa Award for
three years and is far more than a spa. Most hotels start with rooms,
restaurants and then tack a spa as a small afterthought. Breaking
the mould, Chiva Som did things the other way round, taking the spa
and its maze of treatment rooms as its centrepiece and raison d'etre
and locating its 57 rooms around it. As the first purpose-built health
resort in Asia, it has enjoyed a distinct measure of success.
Many visitors agree that Hua Hin hasn't much to offer in the way of
cultural attractions, and in fact the town may not live up to the
expectations of those seeking an exotic and adventure-filled holiday.
But it does offer great opportunities for relaxation, which make it
ideal for that mini-holiday for those wanting a small change of scenery.
And,
for those not into golf or massages - there is always the beach.
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