Town Crier

March 2003

A Lovely Bunch, p. 24-25

...of accommodation options, as well as coconuts. L. Guerrero reports from the isle of Samui

The first thing you will notice in Samui are the inviting stretches of light-coloured sandy shores - but the last thing you will forget are the green, green expanses of coconut plantations that cover more than three-quarters of this island. For a lot of people, this greenness is the single most striking thing about the island as these days it is rare to encounter a 'tropical island paradise' whose every nook and cranny has not yet been taken over by tourism-related developments. In Samui, the beach culture that pervades its coasts has still to seep into its pristine inlands. The coconut trees that blanket most of the island are still very much intact, a legacy from the days before backpackers put the island on the travel map.

Tourism has boomed considerably, albeit considerably less than Phuket and Pattaya, but Samui remains a favourite to many. And it is mostly because it is a destination that offers something for everybody - cliché but true. Samui is full of refreshing contrasts - busy bustling coasts and uninhabited inlands, all-day lively beaches and totally deserted pocket coves, quiet little villages and rowdy bar towns. It is a variety that has made the island one of Thailand's most popular tourist destinations.

Sands to Suit

The beaches themselves (and there are more than 20 in all) cater to different types of personalities. Those who prefer quiet solitude, as well as those seeking non-stop action, will find their own perfect spots. Take for example Chaweng. Samui's longest and most popular beach is packed with restaurants, bars and discos; nightlife lasts till the wee early hours and choices for entertainment include girlie bars, Vegas-style entertainment and a host of water sports.

Just a short walk south will take you to Chaweng Noi, a more peaceful stretch of shore but still near enough Chaweng for those who do not want to feel too remote from the action. Nearby Lamai, the second most popular beach (and for some Samui's best), is less lively than Chaweng and can offer peace and quiet - which visitors will find a lot of in Mae Nam and Bo Phut, both areas of relaxing solitude.

How to get there: From Bangkok, Hua Hin takes 40 minutes by air and two to three hours by car or bus. It can also be reached by train (travel times vary). When to go: The best time to go is from November to May. The town is busiest during national holidays and weekends Where to stay: Although Hua Hin is particularly known for its high-end resorts, it actually offers lodgings that range from inexpensive guesthouses to the extremely high-end picks. Budget: Paradise Lodge, City Beach Resort Mid range: Imperial Lakeview Hotel and Golf Club, Central Village Hua Hin High end: Sofitel Central Railway Hotel, Chiva Som For a complete list of hotels in Hua Hin go to http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Hua_Hin_Cha-Am-Thailand.asp.

Diverse Digs

Along with the variety of beaches comes the variety of accommodation. Samui is an island for all budgets. Travellers will find dirt-cheap hut-style digs (from the island's backpacker days) in Lamai, while astoundingly expensive hotels are scattered around the island, usually with their own private beaches. The most diverse range of lodgings, from simple huts to 5 star resorts, is in Chaweng where one can spend anywhere from US$20 to US$200 a night. Elsewhere around the island, the cheapest huts are reportedly less than US$10, and the most expensive more than US$1,000.

There is still a lot of local industry in Samui, and not all activity is confined to the tourist market. The quiet villages inland are a stark contrast to the throb of activity in Nathon, the island's main town. Those who can be lured away from the beaches will discover that a drive around the island is equally relaxing and gives interesting glimpses at local culture and lifestyle. A trek around Samui will take tourists to numerous temples and monuments, waterfalls, interesting rock formations and even an animal centre.

Green Heart

Activities also vary. Like most beaches around Thailand, Samui offers a lot of different things to do. Beach-bound activities include water sports, and diving and snorkelling are especially popular. For the culinary-inclined Thai cooking lessons are available in hotels and cooking centres at the towns. The adventurous will find elephant trekking an exotic way to tour the island. And, those craving pampering will love the numerous spas which have recently popped up all over the island.

From its roots as a coconut plantation, Samui is successfully catering to its ever-growing tourist market. And arrivals show no sign of letting up, proof that Samui is a destination that can satisfy every kind of traveller. Those who go here know it is hard to leave the island without feeling that one has had one of the best vacations they can ask for so it is equally easy to why so many come back. And, while crowds do get bigger and as the beachfront scene constantly changes, visitors know can take comfort in the thought that Samui's green heart of coconut palms will remain the same.