Town Crier

August 2003

Our Man in Xian - p. 24

L. GUERRERO goes west to check out the capital of Shaanxi Province

It is just a 2-½ hour flight from Hong Kong but it is easy to imagine that a trip to Xian is a journey back thousands of years. With its old towers and temples, massive city walls, ancient tombs, and a 6,000-strong entombed army of terracotta warriors, Xian is obviously not just any Chinese city.

From first impressions visitors might be initially disappointed to see that it looks just like any other mainland metropolis, caught in the midst of rapid development. But although the city itself looks pretty ordinary, few places can rival it for historic interest.

Xian, said to have rivalled Rome in its heyday, was already a prosperous town way before 221 BC when Emperor Qin Shihuang, who unified China, made it his capital. The city enjoyed this regal status for the next dozen dynasties, collectively spanning more than a thousand years. Very few relics of Xian's grand past remain, but those which have survived are among China's greatest treasures, making the city popular with the millions of tourists who visit each year.

Many say that to go to Xian is to trace the roots of China's past, which is just what Nicholas Dover, Greater China Content Manager for asia-hotels.com, did recently. We caught up with him and asked him about the city.

What kind of a city is Xian?
It is the provincial capital of Shaanxi so is mainly industrial, specialising in the aviation and textile industries. The tourism supports the city during summer months (May to September) when it gets crowded. It's also one of the oldest existing cities in China and the restored walled section is particularly impressive.

Is it tourist-friendly?
As far as signposts go - yes, but not when it comes to conversation, spoken English is poor. It's not hard to be understood in the hotels, but out on the street, it's quite difficult. Depending on where you go, people are either very friendly towards tourists, especially around the major sites but in some residential districts, they couldn't care less.

What's the most interesting thing about Xian?
Apart from the obvious historic monuments, the mix of Muslim and Chinese residents is fascinating, and the resulting cuisine is exciting. It is very rare to find such diverse cultures and beliefs so harmoniously co-existing. This adds to the wealth of cuisine in Xian and one could even say is the focal point for all dishes in the city. Mutton is everywhere, along with the Muslim version of dumplings.

Tell us about the major attractions?
The city's major draw is without a doubt the Terracotta Warriors. Almost all hotels in the city make reference to this archaeological wonder; you can't miss the paintings and sculptures in the lobbies. Tours can be easily arranged. Hotel tours cost around 350 yuan (with entrance tickets, car, driver and guide) but you can get cheaper deals through private operators. The site is 45 minutes away from the city itself and the museum complex is built on and around the original dig sites. The tour takes just one morning but it is worthwhile.

There are plenty of temples and pagodas found in and around the city centre. Some do stand out and are well worth a look such as the Bell and Drum Towers, the Wild Goose Pagoda and the Great Mosque. The gates of the ancient wall, and the wall itself, form a wonderful the backdrop for the city, great for late afternoon strolls when it's not so hot. There's also the Huaqing Hot Springs, Emperor Qin's country residence and love nest (many a concubine serviced the emperor), near the Terracotta Warriors Museum, and the Banpo Village and Museum, which is the site of a prehistoric village.

Aside from seeing the sights, what else is there to do in the city?
There are local shows with authentic Imperial palace cuisine and dance. They usually include kung fu, acrobatics (especially with children) and Chinese musical accompaniment. It's great to tour some local markets to check out local produce and a real thrill to see how business is done on daily basis.

How about the nightlife?
There isn't much, mainly karaoke joints but these are targeted at locals. Hotels will have bars or discos with usual opportunities for acquiring companions. Back Street, within the city walls, west of South Gate, has a range of coffee bars and restaurants, some open 24 hours. Some places have bands, some just pianos, and you can sing along - again mainly for locals but they do serve a good measure of spirits.

Interesting food?
You can find local delicacies such as cured meats, dumplings, cold chicken with spicy peanut sauce and candy stalls on the sides of most roads. There are plenty of plum-inspired snacks, cakes and candies. Most dishes are spicy and there's not much seafood, but river produce is widespread like eels, crayfish, snails and fish.

For real local delicacies go to Tang Shan Gong on the 2nd or 3rd floor of Xian Hotel, at 298 East Road. It would help to know some Mandarin when you visit and it's best to go early, whether for lunch or dinner, as it's very popular and they close the kitchens early.

Highly recommended are the Muslim dumplings and Mutton in Soup (Muslim-style) at Xi'An Lao Sun's Restaurant, at 364 East Road next to the Royal Hotel; and Cold Chicken with Spicy Chilli Peanut Sauce, which is best tried at either of the Imperial Chinese Restaurants in the Sheraton or Shangri-La. They are very authentic but very also expensive.

What kind of shopping can visitors expect?
The square by the Bell Tower has a few shopping malls, but nothing especially for tourists. Some of the best buys are to be had at the terracotta museum gift shop but these are not the best priced. As an alternative, try the old lanes near the Great Mosque. Back alleys in the area have lots of "antique" and curio shops selling Chinese paintings, calligraphy, old opium pipes, lots of replicas of terracotta warriorsreally cheap but do haggle. There's also plenty of Mao memorabilia.

Among the hotels you have visited, which ones would you recommend?
Sheraton and Shangri-La Golden Flower are the best luxury hotels I saw during my visit, and these are fairly reliable when it comes to service and value. Rooms at the Sheraton were recently renovated and are very comfortable. The Jianguo, which has a resort-like feel to it, and Le Garden are locally managed hotels. The Dynasty, as well as Xian Hotel, are definitely for budget travellers but also offer some of the best locations within the city.

So is it worth a trip?
Absolutely. Xian is highly recommended for a 2 to 3 day break - a must for travellers interested in China's history and culture. The fastest and most convenient way to get from Hong Kong to Xian is by plane; Xianyuan International Airport has flights that connect it to Hong Kong, other major cities in China, and a few cities in Asia. Trains take much longer but some may find the journey a much more interesting experience.

Many international visitors make Xian a side trip from Beijing. Tourist season in Xian runs from May to September, but I was in Xian during low season when there was snow on the ground. There weren't too many tourists at all.