Town Crier

September 2003

Travel Asia: Divine Destination - p. 26


Felice Tusi Follows the Pilgrims

Manila's traffic is bad in general on one particular day a month, Roxas Boulevard is transformed into a massive parking lot as cars and buses queue for long hours along Metro Manila's famed bayside thoroughfare. Traffic moves, albeit slowly. Pedestrians walk laboriously shoulder to shoulder, contemplating the day's agenda – their gaze fixed on one destination on this day of recollection.

It is, after all, the first Wednesday of the month and all roads lead to Redemptory Church in the Baclaran area of Paranaque, one of Metro Manila's sub-cities. The church doors open at dawn, ushering throngs of devotees coming to pray to the patroness, Our Lady of Perpetual Help, for answers to their needs – anything from good health to a prosperous future. Walking on knees toward the front altar is the typical form of supplication and personal images and prayer booklets are blessed with holy water.

Such is the fanatic ardour in which most Filipinos live. Catholicism predominates this land for almost 80 million people. Christianity, one of the legacies of 300 years of Spanish rule, remains ubiquitous in daily life – a short trip begins with a quick prayer for safety, a finals exam at university includes dropping by a nearby chapel before entering the classroom and a hearty meal almost never starts without saying the perfunctory thanks in silence.

Romanesque Rebuilt
Churches are seen in every town and city around the Philippines. Some have withstood the ravages of time and disasters (both natural and man-made) yet there are also those that have been poorly rehabilitated, as renovation efforts in this country are often limited to reckless washings of white paint.

Around Manila itself, there are some fine churches notable for their architecture and history. Most are not pilgrimage sites like Baclaran, but still attract a following of their own.

Inside the walls of Intramuros, the foremost tourist spot in Manila, is the Cathedral originally constructed in 1581. It has endured four earthquakes and a bomb attack during the city's liberation from Japanese troops in 1945. Rebuilt in the 1950s, romanesque stone carvings and rosette windows taken from the wartime ruins are incorporated in the current edifice. A favorite choice for weddings, the Cathedral's enormous, intricately carved doors welcome countless couples with their entourages in tow.

A few meters from the Cathedral is San Agustin church, built from mortar and stone during the 16th century. Though much of it has been restored, as is obvious from its out-of-place light pastel façade, this church has had more success surviving earthquakes and battles; much of its baroque character remains intact. Beyond its doors lie several interesting sights like the pulpit, choir stalls carved out of molave wood and an 18th century pipe organ. It also has a museum filled with monastic artifacts, and the remains of chief Spanish conqueror Miguel Lopez de Legazpi are buried in a small altar within.

Steel Spire
For a bit of novelty, the San Sebastian church in the Quiapo district is the first all-steel basilica in the country and indeed in Asia. A pioneer in the field of prefabrication, the church structure, weighing a staggering 50,000 tons, was Belgian-made and stained glass windows where crafted in France. All were shipped to the country in six ships. Designed to outlast earthquakes, the basilica towers 52 meters tall. There is no strong army of worshippers, just typical church regulars and tourists who frequent its confines to admire the Gothic-inspired structure.

Over in Chinatown, the Binondo church is a famous landmark which was founded in 1596. The baroque façade and its eight-sided bell tower are remnants of the original structure. Built as a place of worship for Catholic-baptized Chinese settlers during the Spanish era, the basilica remains true to its oriental origins, serving as an historical backdrop during Lunar New Year festivities.

Another popular refuge for the spirit is Quiapo church. Here, the atmosphere is similar to Baclaran's – except this time it's on Fridays. The crowds swell right on to the sidewalk of Quezon Boulevard on which the current cream-hued structure stands, a far cry from the original Mexican baroque style framework which was razed to the ground in 1928. The architecture is not breathtaking but the ambience is altogether different, with the presence of folk medicine, amulets being peddled and fortune tellers awaiting customers at the side of the church. And Chinese and Muslim traders sell a variety of wares in shops and stalls around the vicinity.

Visiting Manila during any of the Catholic festivals such as Lent, Easter or Christmas, when there is added colour and vitality in all the churches, you will see the Filipino people in happy celebration. If you're visiting Manila (or Quiapo in particular) in the first week of January, you will be overwhelmed by the crowds. The patron's feast day falls around this time, and a black life-size image of the tortured Jesus is harnessed to thick ropes and led out by male devotees in a chaotic procession amidst a legion of thousands. If you're up for a bit of sweaty arm-wrestling, whoever gets to hold the ropes is believed to receive favours for the year ahead - amen to that!