Town Crier

November 2003

Road trip, p.24

Malaysia's west coast is well known to tourists -- from the Peranakan-style buildings of Penang to the lazy beaches of Langkawi, the traditional trading houses of Melaka's Junker's Street to the more recent Petronas Towers of KL. But to taste a more unspoilt side of Peninsular Malaysia try exploring the east coast. Over 500 kilometres of deserted beaches an excellent network of well kept roads make a driving trip through this often missed part of Malaysia a great vacation.

To the south, one hour away from the causeway in Singapore is Desaru. This little known complex of resorts came to prominence during the 1980s; its clear sandy beaches and challenging golf courses providing a condo-style retreat for Singaporeans. The market collapse of the 1990s left many resorts enviable of unfinished but the peaceful locale makes a good stating point for any trip up the east coast.

Bali-Hai?
The landscape en route to Mersing further north is dominated by oil palms, which have replaced nearly all of Johor's once-spectacular forests, and British-built pillboxes that so spectacularly failed to defend Singapore in World War II. Some 50 kilometres south of Mersing, the remote ferry service at Tanjung Leman takes you to the islands of Sibu and Tinggi on which the resorts are basic to say the least. Here, mobile phones are useless, but water is a luxury and generator's supply electricity. However, those taking the 20-minute speedboat crossing are rewarded with pristine sands and blissful tranquility. Do remember though to take a good honk.

Mersing is the stepping-off point to Tioman, one of the world's most beautiful islands. The setting for the picture-perfect Bali-hai in the film South Pacific, Tioman is still truly spectacular, despite the huge number of tourists it draws each year and some far from outside developments. Towering volcanic peaks and clinging rainforest dominate the island that manages to accommodate a spectrum of guests from beach hut loving backpackers to international visitors staying at huge Berjaya Resort complex. Trekking, snorkelling and diving are favourite activities. There is no real timetable for ferries to Tioman as operators follow the tides but sailings are frequent and prices controlled. During the winter monsoon from November to February, many resorts close down and the ferries can become irregular.

Logging On
Dense tropical forests complete with curious monkeys line the route out of Johor into Pahang, Malaysia's biggest state. Oil palms give way to jungle interspersed with small plantations of branded rubber trees dripping their white sap into coconut caps. Straddling the two states in Endau Rompin National Park, one of the largest tracts of virgin rainforest left on the Peninsula. Though the trees are protected, the lines of log-laden lorries that pass south are a stark reminder of the problems Malaysia faces curbing the logging companies. The pretty fishing village of Kuala Rompin is one sorry-looking lorry park. As the coast road pushes on to Kuantan much of the forest has been totally ravaged, painting a sad backdrop to the mile after mile of stunning sandy beaches which ran virtually uninterrupted the full length of Pahang state.

Much of the roadside for this 200 km stretch is totally deserted, a huge contrast to roads in other Asian countries which are usually lined with opportunistic vendors and businesses. However, each mile away from Singapore adds to the multi-ethnic mix that makes up Malaysia. Passing large Petronas refineries, miles of prawn farms and the royal town of Pekan with its pre-war shophouses, the Muslim influence grows.

Kuantan has little to offer on the surface - but dig a little deeper and it will surprise. The striking blue and white State Mosque dominates the town centre. Opposite you can find the local ethnic food market which serves a wonderful mix of Indian, Chinese and Malay cuisine. For afternoon snacks, try Apam Balik, a pancake with peanut and sweetcorn; keropok, fish crackers popular in the area; Otak-otak or Satar, fish paste wrapped in banana leaves; carry puffs, chicken fried rice or the deep-fried Yan Char Kwai dough. Stallholders are friendly and helpful. Pahang's state capital is also a good staging post for a whole series of tours into the vicinity; from local trips like a river tour or a visit to fishing villages, to trips further afield such as to the old tin mine museum at Sungai Lembing or to Lake Chini with its abundant wildlife and blowpiping aboriginals.

Around 40 kilometres further north is Cherating village, a once popular kampung now fallen into disrepair. One visitor still returning each year is the leatherback turtle. These huge reptiles, growing up to three metres in length and weighing over 600 kilograms in some cases, return to Cherating Beach, as well as Rantan and Kuala Abang further up the coast between May and September to lay their eggs. One place worth a visit at the southern end of the beach is the turtle sanctuary set up to protect this endangered species.

A few kilometres from Kuala Dangun is the loveliest resort on the east coast and one of the best in the country. The Tanjong Jara, sister to the equally beautiful Pangkor Laut on the west coast, was built in 1979, winning the Aga Khan award for outstanding use of local architecture. Its serene gardens, crafted wood rooms and infinity pool gazing out to sea all impart a real sense of calm. Though slightly more expensive than others on this coast, the resort is a real oasis.

Royal Town
Boat building is a major trade in the area. Traditional fishing boats are hand-crafted out of Cengal hardwood, thick planks heat and pinned with Pasak wood nails. The joints are packed with paper-like bark of Galam to seal. A 50-foot boat takes over six months to complete and weighs over 30 tonnes.

A multitude of other traditional crafts still thrive nearby. Silk weaving, kite building, silverwork and batik painting are just some of the most common cottage industries. To watch silk weaving in action, stop at the Sutera Semai silk factory at Cendering, six kilometres south of Kuala Terengganu. The Nor Arfa factory just around the corner produces great batiks.

Kuala Terengganu itself was just a small fishing part until it began to prosper from the oil and gas industries. Whilst its marketplace and ceremonial house Istana Mariah are interesting, the town is more notable as a transition point for the wonderful island of Redang (also accessible to Merang), just 50 minutes away by ferry. Redang is considerably smaller than Tioman but is equally stunning and the diving is some of the best in Malaysia. As with Tioman, the ferry times can get very irregular during monsoon season and a number of resorts close.

Right on the border with Thailand is the fiercely Malay town of Kota Bharu. The state capital of Kelantan is a fascinating royal town built on a trading tradition. Its combination of thriving markets, museums and historic buildings, many with a strong Thai influence means it has much to offer. Just one hour south lies Kuala Besut, the stepping-off point for the relatively undeveloped Perhentian Islands, which have to date avoided the invasion of the developers. Popular with budget travellers, it can be almost impossible to get rooms here in peak season.

The east coast - it's a wonder that more tourists do not make the effort to explore it. So if you think you've already seen the best of Malaysia, head east - you will be surprised by the deserted beaches, stunning tropical rainforests and some of the world's best snorkelling and diving.

When to go
The winter monsoon between November and March, makes the sea rough and driving a little more challenging. The recommended time to travel is between April and October, but avoid public holidays and school holidays if you can, as the roads will be more crowded and hotels fuller.

How to get there
The easiest way is to drive. Car hire in Malaysia is very simple. Mayflower and Avis are tow of the better companies as they have a countrywide network of offices. Rates are approximately RM 140 per day. Cars can be picked up and dropped off at different locations for a fee around RM 150. Pick up your vehicle in Johor Bahru or Kuala Lumpur on the west coast or fly first to Kuala Terengganu, Kuantan or Kota Bharu on the east and pick up a car there.

Where to stay
Resorts and hotels found along the east coast of Malaysia and its islands suit all budgets. Some recommended hotels include the Perdana Beach Resort in Desaru, the Swiss Garden Resort & Spa in Kuantan, and the Tanjong Jara in Terengganu. For more information on other hotels in Malaysia, go to http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Malaysia.asp.