Town Crier
December 2003
Baguio and beyond
When Filipinos start to feel the sweltering humidity of the summer,
one obvious destination springs to mind - Baguio City, gateway
to the north. Ask anybody about their childhood memories of spending
holidays in the city of pines; expect them to wax sentimental over
knitted sweaters, forest walks, strawberries, boat rides and pony
treks in the park. Such is the popular charm of this retreat nestled
5,000 feet above sea level, eight hours drive from Manila.
The rustic, idyllic setting has recently cast a glance at modernization.
Much of the city has become a mini Manila of sorts - with heavy traffic,
rising street crime and homeless folk in the parks - certainly not
an ideal picture for a city celebrating its centenary as the summer
capital, dubbed as such during its time as R&R town for American
soldiers and government officials escaping the heat.
But not all is lost, as there are attractions in the city and beyond
that make a visit worthwhile. First, a trip to Baguio is not complete
without eating the sweet strawberries from the city market. At weekends,
be warned that prices double and even triple! A better and more entertaining
way to sample this local treat is to head straight to the fields
of Trinidad Valley and go on a strawberry-picking frenzy. Found at
Km. 6 near the town of La Trinidad, the capital of Benguet Province,
these fields are resplendent when the rows and rows of strawberry
plants are thick with big red fruits ready for harvesting. Here,
prices are much lower and the experience is twice the fun. Strawberry
season starts now and continues until summer.
Disappearing Mummies
Returning to Baguio, one may chance upon what looks like a stately
Chinese temple, seemingly out of place in this town. Bell Church
is an eye-catching structure with small templates connected by steps
to more temples further up. Apart from being a venue for religious
ceremonies, Bell Church offers fortune-telling sessions for a small
fee. Another church that receives pilgrims is the Baguio Cathedral
in the heart of the city overlooking Session Road.
For the
culture buff, the museums, though not that extensive, offer good
insights into the city and province. At the Baguio Convention Centre,
indigenous arts and crafts are on display and visitors can view a
timeline of the city's past. The Philippine Military Academy, cut
from the same fabric as West Point in the US, houses war memorabilia
and opens its grounds to the public when cadets hold parades.
At the small Benguet Provincial Museum in La Trinidad, mummies stand
alongside traditional weaponry, household tools and clothing used
by the Igorot tribes of the region. An aura of mystery surrounds
one part of the museum which details how a 500-year old mummy known
as Apo Anno found its way back to its home in the mountains after
being stolen decades earlier. The province has had to deal with disappearing
mummies for years as marauding thieves have emptied burial caves
in search of ancient bounty.
Benguet province is home to three major Igorot tribes: the Kankana-ey,
Ibaloi and Kalanguya. Most are attuned to modern ways but their traditions
and customs live on. Mummification, practiced particularly by the
Ibalois, started as early as the 12th century, although some even
say it dates back to 2000 BC. The Spanish halted the paganistic process
when they introduced Christianity to the Philippines in the 1500s.
Only distinguished members of the tribe were mummified, as experts
can surmise from the intricate body markings present on most mummies
discovered in the town of Kabayan. Over 200 mummies are reportedly
ensconced in caves and crevices but many are sadly now in disarray
due to an influx of disrespectful tourists.
Rice Terraces
If it's more mummy lore you're after, take a visit to Sagada town,
north of Benguet. Getting there is half the battle as the mountain
roads are narrow, dusty and bumpy! Buses going straight to Sagada
leave regularly from Baguio for the eight hour drive (or bounce)
along the scenic Mt. Halsema highway - a network of unlit roads through
rolling mountains with sweeping views of rice fields and neat rows
of vegetable crops planted in terraces carved out of the slopes.
Farming the famous rice terraces is an age-old tradition of the locals
of Ifugao province. These magnificent architectural landmarks, the
famous being in Banaue, are recognized as a World Heritage site.
The towns of Mayoyao, Hungduan, Batad and Bangaan, with similarly
preserved terraces, have also been added to the list. There are buses
from Manila that go directly to Banaue on a nine-hour trip without
passing through Baguio.
Burial caves, waterfalls and lower temperatures are Sagada's main
attractions. Curfew is strictly enforced at 9pm in this small retreat
where you can hear the pine trees brushing against each other in
the late afternoon when winds get stronger. The tourist trade is
somewhat organised with entry fees to pay upon arrival and guides
available to accompany visitors on tortuous treks and haphazard hikes.
Locals are used to seeing tourists and will sometimes act as impromptu
guides themselves. School kids will share with you folklore - like
St. Elmo's Fire which leaves its fiery marks in the trunks of pine
trees - or show you the way to the hanging coffins used by the tribes,
whilst describing the eerie burial custom of carrying the dead seated
in a death chair passed from one person's arms to the next. Though
now predominantly Anglican in faith, some of the Kankana-eys living
in Sagada still put their dead in coffins high up in the crevices
to give their loved ones closer access to the gods.
Not far north of Manila, the sights are stunning and the customs
fascinating. The Philippines may be more renowned for its
beaches and diving but, if one has the time, endurance and an adventurous
spirit, Baguio and beyond can be a great holiday destination that
beats the heat of a hot summer's day.
Getting there: Asian Spirit has daily flights from Manila to Baguio's
Loakan airport. Buses coming from Manila or going further up to Banaue
and Sagada from Baguio run on regular scheduled trips.
Best time to go: February for the Flower Festival, or summer months
from May to June.
Recommended places to stay:
Budget - Hotel Supreme
Mid-range - Concorde
Hotel, Banaue Hotel in Banaue
High-end - Camp John Hay Manor
For
more information, go to www.asiahotels.com/hl/Baguio_City-Philippines.asp.
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