Town Crier

December 2004

El Nido explored!

By Felice Tusi
Where in the Philippine can you find turtles lazily flowing with the current or coral fish nipping at the cliffs, secret coves and sandy lagoons sustained in their natural beauty? The answers lie at the North West tip of Palawan, an hour and a half hop from Manila.

With one absence of touts offering tours and packages, rowdy holiday makers on a beer run and well away from the dizzying hedonistic madness of more mainstream destinations, the esteemed paradise of El Nido is an ideal spot for honeymooning couples, water fanatics and families in need of some peace and solitude with an eco bent. The 96,000 hectare El Nido Marine Reserve is protected by the Philippine government – Bacuit Bay and its 40 plus islands on the doorstep of El Nido town present an undeveloped haven for the eco-conscious escaping the crowds of other more popular resort areas such as Boracay and Mactan Island, Cebu.

Don’t expect a full compliment of leisurely pursuits, nonetheless you will not be disappointed with the ones on hand. Sea kayaking in the Big and Small lagoons of Miniloc Island or in the Cathedral Cave of Pinasil Island; snorkeling off islands such as Dilumacad or Tapiusan; or if you’re looking for marine life, just around the house reef of Miniloc is a playground of giant jacks and Sergeant Major fish that would make Nemo blush at the sheer number! For those seeking seclusion then Matinloc has a secret beach. For more underwater adventures, some of the first class diving in the country can be found in over 20 recognized sites. The sight of an endangered Hawkesbill Turtle or a darting Parrot Fish, seeding giant clams or the sleek (but small!) Blacktip Reef Shark is every National Geographic photographer’s dream. Difficult not to miss though are the bleached and dead corals ravaged by the effects of El Nido and the famed Crown of Thorns which grazes on coral polyps has created damaging inroads although the resorts are doing their best to remove it. Do also try the underwater tunnel at Dilumacad Island. The resorts of Miniloc and Lagen have probably the most professional dive set ups.

So where does one go for lazing in the sand? El Nido has no shortage of stunning pocket beaches whatsoever! It is not hard to spot one as every nook and cranny is a cradle of fine sandy coves that are happily secluded. They are accessible only by boat and sometimes used by resorts as dinner venue for their guests. Note however some beaches can get thorny with corals at low tide making it less fun. Best picks on every beachcomber’s list are Seven Commandos which has a great beach and the fine sands of Entalula Island. The one at Snake Island has been given enough exposure in a motley of travel books and magazines but is over rated. But for the hundreds of starfish seen at low tide, still it makes for a good side trip.

If birdwatching is on your agenda, the 5am or dusk time (depending on the tide) visits to the mangrove swamps of the Aberawan and Danat rivers can be a real treat. You are guaranteed birds such as the Eastern Reef Egnet and if you are lucky you might spot a banded mangrove snake or water monitor lizard. An attraction close to the swamps is Cudugnon Cave which archaeologists believe was a burial site during Neolithic times and can lead to some fairly tall stories form the guides. Also popular are yarns about isolated Japanese troops found long after the end of WWII – to be taken with a pinch of salt!

For those hoping to get some action back in dry land, there are very few options. Lagen Island does have a forest trail where one can see monkeys, the Palawan Hornbill and striking Palawan Squirrel. A similar trail can be found on Pangulasian Island. Those who do venture out on foot will be rewarded with a wonderful array of flora and fauna. Mountain bikes can be hired in El Nido for use on the main Palawan Island.

There are only really two resorts in El Nido – the resort islands of Miniloc and Lagen. Being cut off from the rest of Palawan, visitors are in for a captive holiday! Full meals are included with the transfers and leisure activities. Chartered flights from Manila arrive at the pocket airport near El Nido town then guests are whisked off in speedboats to the paradise of Bacuit Bay.

How to get there
Soriano Aviation has charter flights to El Nido town twice daily.

When to go
The dry season from December to May

Recommended Places to Stay
Lagen Island Resort
Minilac Island

For other hotels in Palawan, visit http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Palawan-Philippine.asp