, India travel guide

Introduction

Gateway of India at night

Located on the west coast of the subcontinent Mumbai faces out into the Arabian Sea. Mumbai is technically Indias second city, but in many ways, this progressive economic powerhouse is Indias first. Its streets ahead of the rest of the country in many ways and has managed to cobble together capitalist dynamism, pompous history and fractured social elements particularly well.

Although its not a tourist destination in the true sense of the word, it is one of Indias more livable and lovable cities. Mumbai has a character of its own, and bearing in mind what a disaster services can be in India, Mumbai is a breeze.

Attractions
There are few attractions as such in Mumbai and the energetic could cover them all in just over a day.

Colaba is the main tourist area, with shops, restaurants, hotels and the main landmarks. The most recognizable landmark is the Gateway Of India, a bold British colonial archway built in 1911. Located on the waterfront, away from the roads and near a small bit of park, the landmark is a popular hangout for all. Hawkers, picnickers and tourists mingle around. Expect string puppets, sleeve-tugging beggars and cameras.

The other half of the typical Mumbai postcard shot would include the flamboyant Taj Mahal Hotel, just adjacent to the Gateway. This grand, turn of the century structure was built by tycoon Tata when he was refused entry into a hotel for being a native. This splendid two fingers to the empire is a superb example of architecture of the time.

Many of Indias museums are somewhat moth-eaten and limp - untrue for the commendable Prince Of Wales Museum. The grand old building is set in well-patrolled gardens and is topped with a stately dome. It is filled with fine ancient pieces of the region, plus weaponry, some rather badly stuffed natural history exhibits and a period paintings donated by local tycoon Tata.

One thing elevating Mumbai above other Indian cities is the presence of some beautiful colonial architecture. The best is probably Churchgate train terminus. Its a superb Victorian building with elaborate Indian influences, and makes a great snap from across the road with the traditional red double decker buses cruising back and forth.

Colorful culture

Other beautiful buildings of the Raj period include the delightful Bombay University, complete with charming clock tower. Hornimum Circle is a collection of stately streets that, minus the tuk-tuks, could easily be part of London. The Yacht Club is a wonderful example of faded imperialism, and the David Sassoon Library is another proud effort. Most of these places dont admit tourists as such, though it might be fairly easy to have a nose around if you can waffle a good excuse.

The Floral Fountain, for some reason, finds its way into guidebooks and onto the tourist itinerary. It may be old and historic but its very little to look at and certainly not worth seeking out. If you do find it youre likely not to recognize it, its pretty inconspicuous and boring.

Another attraction worth skipping is Mumbai Zoo, which is a rather drab and dated affair with glum prison bars and miserable animals caged up in limited space.

The Queens Necklace is the curving bay spanning from the city centre out towards Malabar Point. It gets its name from the night view when the line of lampposts is rather flatteringly compared to a line of pearls. Somewhere in the centre is fairly ordinary stretch of sand lined with a busy road known as Chowpatty Beach. It isnt a bad looking bearing in mind it could easily be horribly polluted, but tellingly, nobody gets in. Rather drab looking Juhu Beach near the airport is away from the city and is more relaxed, but again has poor cleanliness.

Entertainment and Eating Out
For those sick of curries, or for those who cant get enough of them, try Indian Summer. This is an Indian restaurant with a local twist, providing all sorts of lively Bombay specialties well outside the standard predictable fair. Theres a slight touch of the 80s about it, but its good value and serves some top stuff.

Hotels offer some of the best dining options. The Taj Mahal Hotel claims the pinnacle in Mumbais dining, The Zodiac Grill. The snug, dimly lit restaurant has a first rate menu with world-class offerings. Service is exemplary and the mood superior. Its not unusual to have a renowned pianist tinkling away whilst you sip on your wine. Very civilized. Prices are as astronomical as the theme, but this is the place for all-round quality.

Sidewok, opposite Back Bay, has a bit of an identity problem specializing in Mongolian stir-fries, but doing pastas and curries in a bright and smart bar-restaurant with a live band. Its a bit of everything really, and should have something for everyone.

Colaba Causeway is the main tourist stretch and is lined with cafs and cheap eats, with good varied low budget menus and affordable choices from pizzas to kebabs. One worth trying is the backpacking Mecca, Leopolds. The dingy but popular diner is filled with transient travellers flicking through their Lonely Planets, and has a familiar menu.

Rajabai

If you really must, then McDonalds is opposite Churchgate Terminus. Beef is out of course in Hindu country, and McDonalds do chicken Maharaja Burgers so as not to cause offence. After a big rumpus McDonalds have ensured that no beef fat is used in making their fries.

A good and trendy pick is the centrally located Starters And More. The Western menu offers some of Mumbais best comfort food for homesick palates, and the unusual blend of sophistication, jukebox, bar and live music works well. Easy to miss, its upstairs in the Eros Theatre Building. Another popular place thats especially popular with expats is Jazz By The Bay. They do a great buffet lunch and theres either a live band or live sports in the evening.

There are quite a few bars and pubs, many with the standard talented Filipino live band. Gordons House behind the Taj Hotel has a trendy Asian restaurant, aqua bar and a heaving nightclub on the upper floor. Very hip and shiny.

A funky floating bar named Suzy Wongs can be reached from a jetty off the Queens Necklace. Great retro styling includes bright red fluffy walls and ceiling and lots of fun 60s clichs. Austin Powers would love it. Its a nice place to chill out with a group of friends and eye the city lights.

Beyond bars, entertainment is a bit thin on the ground for such a big blob on the map. There are no public swimming pools, and sporting facilities are very basic, although there are often low-key cricket matches on opposite the university.

If youre in Mumbai for a few nights, try to put an evening aside for a Bollywood movie, the more cornier the better. Colourful and visual, these fantastic clichs broadly fall into three categories; love stories filled with singing and dancing around trees, family based comedies with a stern mother-in-law, and action movies with villains being hurled through windows.

Shopping
Shopping in Mumbai is reasonable but not particularly outstanding. Colaba is the main shopping area, with plenty of aging mini-malls but little catches the eye. There are local markets dotted around the Fort region, mostly trading in vegetables, plastic kitchen utensils and daily junk, but you might want to head there if you are looking to pick up a cheap copied watch or some fabrics.

Souvenir stalls line the main touristy road, Colaba Causeway. This is the place to pick up small carvings, hippie trinkets and T-shirts. There are also countless little stalls lining the stairway up to the caves on Elephanta Island.

Mereweather Road behind the Taj Hotel has one or two pricey antique and craft shops with some interesting items amongst the bric-a-brac. There are also some street stalls selling reproduction antiques in the area, although prices quoted are often ridiculous.

Getting from A to B
Mumbais transportation is pretty good and the city is both manageable in size and reasonably straightforward to navigate. Traffic is more fluid than you might expect, except of course rush hour on the causeway. There is no underground rail network.

Mumbais taxis are by far the best way to move about. After Delhi you might have considered chopping out taxis altogether, but here they are cheap, plentiful and quick. The drivers are vastly better behaved than Delhis scamming bunch. Of course some may try not to employ the meter, but most do so without asking or will do so with a gentle nudge. Even cheaper are the nippy autorickshaws, again, generally friendly and well behaved.

Churchgate Terminus

Hiring a car and driver for the day is unnecessary unless perhaps you are traveling away from the nucleus of the city. Unless you speak Hindi, make sure you ask for an English speaking driver before you head out, as if you only ask for a driver then thats what you get!

Victorian Churchgate Train Station is the central travel hub for the city with clanking trains rumbling in and out stuffed with passengers. Rush hour rail traffic is horrendous by any measure, with the majority of the city workforce converging on it at peak hours - its quite overwhelming. Theres little difference between 1st and 2nd class other than elbowroom. Apparently, on average, two of Mumbais rooftop fare dodgers fall to their death every day. The rail network struggles to hold this humungous nation together, and any trip can be a real test of your nerves. But travelling by train is insanely cheap, especially for long distances.

Boats for Elephanta Island and Mandwa leave from the jetty at the Gateway Of India. The trip to Elephanta takes around an hour and once you get there you can hop on the dinky open train for a rupee or two and avoid the lengthy walk to the base of the hill.

Mumbai International Airport is not as hostile as Delhis and seems better managed. Many flights come in late, and if yours does expect to breeze into the city centre in under 45 minutes. Daytime travel time takes much longer.

Tours

Bollywood movie posters

City tours of Mumbai arent worth bothering with as the attractions are few and are very easily and cheaply reached by public transport.

The best accessible tour is to Elephanta Island, an hour or so from the city by boat. Boats leave from the Gateway Of India and tickets are available at the booths here - ignore the touts. Elephanta Island is worth visiting for its impressive Hindu temples carved into the cool caves and some of the statues are in good shape. The only site of archeological significance for miles.

Hill station Matheran has always been a handy respite from the sweltering heat of Indias hotter months. The leafy area has some good country trails but is heavily littered by the intermittent city crowds.

Events
India is awash with colour, splendour and tradition, and there are countless festivals throughout the year. Oil lamps flicker throughout the nights of Deepavali, a 5-day Hindu celebration falling around October and a traditional time of goodwill.

February sees the Elephanta Festival on Elephanta Island. The island, busy enough during weekends and public holidays, heaves as thousands turn out for the traditional dancers and ceremonies. Another big local festival, Ganesh Chaturthi falls around August or September with more large crowds watching an image of Ganesh paraded through the streets and finally led into the sea.

The cricket-mad Indians are periodically treated to Test matches and Internationals at the Wankhede Stadium not far from Churchgate Terminus.

Cyber Mumbai
Perhaps Indias most progressive city, Mumbai is pretty well wired. There is no shortage of Internet cafes and generally speaking the connections here are pretty good and are far better than frustrating ones elsewhere in the country. Lal and Company in the streets behind the Gateway Of India is a reliable choice. On the whole, Mumbai rates are fair, roughly a dollar an hour. Hotels are vastly more expensive, typically offering only greater comfort with trimmings such as pot plants.

Tourist Information Offices
Mumbai has a very helpful and resourceful tourist information centre on Maharshi Karve Road, near Churchgate Train Terminus. The traditional library-like office is filled with flyers and brochures galore on the whole country.

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