Bohol, Philippines

City Guide
Introduction  |   Beaches and Diving  |   Attractions  |   Tourist Information Offices  |   Shopping  |   Entertainment and Eating Out  |   Cyber Bohol  |   Getting from A to B  |   Tours  |   Events

Introduction
Just 79 kilometres southeast of Cebu, oval-shaped Bohol province, is a treasure trove of ecological and historical wonders including the popular Chocolate Hills. The capital, Tagbilaran remains a sleepy laid-back city with its share of ubiquitous malls and fastfood chains. Not much action to be found here but in the isles at the tip of Bohol, pristine beaches line Panglao Island while the best and most popular divesites in the country temptingly lie around Balicasag Island. A few years ago, only divers and locals were privy to these white sand beaches and dive sites but soon word did spread thus Bohol is now largely popular as a world-class diving destination.

Bohol has other sights to offer the traveller seeking to explore more of the island. Apart from being a cradle for caves, waterfalls and mangrove forests, it is also home to the bright-eyed tarsier, one of the world's smallest primates. The province also served as the site of the Blood Compact, a historic treaty of friendship between a local chieftain and a Spaniard drawn in a contract signed with blood from their veins. The Spanish occupation thus left behind a number of centuries-old churches and watchtowers.

Visitors to the island have increased in recent years as Bohol continues to promote its own brand of eco-tourism, but this beautiful island remains largely quaint, unexplored, and unaffected by the modern trappings that it currently enjoys.

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Beaches and Diving
If the Philippines is widely known for its beaches then some of the most beautiful ones are found in Bohol's coastline.

Panglao Island, connected to Tagbilaran City by two bridges, is home to these white sandy havens with clear azure waters. Alona Beach is the most popular and the most developed on the island. As this area is popular with divers, being near the divespots, Alona Beach nestles numerous resorts along its kilometre-and-a-half-long stretch, with a good number of well-established dive shops. The water is clear and warm, the sand white and soft; the only drawback is the number of sea urchins that can be found some twenty or thirty metres from the beach. Locals harvest these sea urchins but do be careful when wading in the water.

Diving in Bohol

Another top choice in Panglao is Dumaluan. It has a long stretch of white sand, and the waters are so blue and clear that it is hard to resist a refreshing dip. Not all is pristine, though. As this is where one of the biggest resorts is, a walk down the beach will not be without the occasional bottle or food wrapper that has not been properly disposed. For the most part, however, the beach remains clean, and still provides a beautiful view of the vast expanse of sea meeting sky.

Lastly, Doljo Beach is a small stretch of beach but has very clear and tranquil waters. It is known for the beautiful sea shells that can be found scattered on the shore.

Diving is highly recommended, with numerous excellent dive spots just off the islands. These dive sites are accessible from the beaches around Panglao. Famous among divers is Rico's Wall, a coral garden on a shelf, with caves and overhangs. On its eastern end is Rudy's Rock, an extension of Rico's wall. Northward is the Black Forest, one of the more difficult dives around these waters. Most dive shops have comprehensive programs of where to go and what to see.

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Attractions
Back in dry land, Bohol can proudly lay claim to a lot of natural, cultural and historical attractions.

First on the list must be the Chocolate Hills for which Bohol is so famed. These 1,268 uniformly-cone-shaped hills straddle three towns; but the most recommended, from which one can get a good vista is Carmen. While verdant green during the rainy season, the hills turn chocolate brown during the dry season, hence the name.

Tarsier

Next to the Chocolate Hills, the tarsier is also closely associated to Bohol. The world's smallest primate, the tarsier is a nocturnal animal with a long tail and enormous eyes. While there are places along the Loboc River showing tarsiers in captivity, a better option for the traveler would be to go to the tarsier sanctuary in nearby Corella. This is off the tourist path but is well-worth the trip.

If you're up for some exploring, the Hinagdanan Cave is popular and easily accessible. Situated in Panglao, the cave got its name from the stairs ("hagdan") that were used to climb down the cave. Once inside, one is treated to the sight of a pool of brackish water. The pool is deep enough (approximately 15 feet) to dive and swim in.

One of the oldest churches in the Philippines is Baclayon Church. Built by Jesuit priests in the 16th century, the present church bears a façade and some smaller buildings that were built by the Augustinian Recollects in the 19th century. Numerous religious antiques can be found in the adjacent Baclayon Museum, including, old ecclesiastical vestments, the original altars of the church, and a statue of the Holy Family which miraculously escaped bombings during World War II despite having been hit squarely in the middle by a bomb.

Across the church is the Baclayon pier, from which one takes chartered boats or bancas en route to Pamilacan Island, and the playground of the local dolphins and whales. Whale watching can be done in the months of March to June but resident dolphins can be seen year-round. It is best to contact the former whale hunters of Pamilacan as they are the best spotters and are trained in these tours which can easily increase chances of a sighting. These spotters are also involved in the conservation of the animals; thus, employing their assistance in these tours helps them in that effort.

Dauis Church on Panglao Island houses a miraculous well of fresh water in front of the altar. Legend tells of a time when pirates raided the island and the residents of Dauis locked themselves up in the church. When they had run out of provisions and water, a wellspring of water miraculously appeared. While the church is conspicuously near the sea, the water in the well remains amazingly fresh to this day. A Spanish watchtower can be found behind the church.

Loboc Children's Choir

Loboc Town, on the other hand, is known for several things. The Loboc Church is the second oldest church in Bohol. Across the church, on the banks of the Loboc River, one can ride a river boat and enjoy a leisurely lunch while cruising down the river. A source of local and national pride is the Loboc Children's Choir, comprised of schoolchildren from the Loboc Elementary school. The choir has had much exposure in concert halls across the world and their international awards seem to affirm their talent.

A number of watchtowers can be seen in most towns. These sturdy stone structures served as lookout points against pirates and Muslim marauders who were a common threat to the islands during the Spanish occupation. On Pamilacan Island is a centuries-old Spanish watchtower. This tower is less preserved than the Punta Cruz in Maribojoc, from which one can see the islands of Cebu, Siquijor, and Mindanao.

The spot on which stand the stone figures of local chief Sikatuna and the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi is known as the Blood Compact Site. During Bohol's bygone days, the two leaders forged friendship among their people through a contract signed using their own blood.

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Tourist Information Offices
Information can be obtained from the many resorts in Bohol. Likewise, there is a tourist assistance desk at the airport, found as one disembarks from the plane and enters the terminal.

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Shopping
Shopping is low-key with only Bohol's native baskets on offer, and the best place to go to is the Antequera Sunday market. Boholano delicacies to try are peanut kisses, and kalamay, a sugary jam, both of which can be purchased from any of the numerous grocery stores on the island.

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Chocolate hills

Entertainment and Eating Out
Unless you are staying in a resort on Alona Beach, the dining choices for travellers are generally limited to what is offered by the resort you're staying in. Alona Beach offers varied international fare, owing to the many foreigners who stay on this strip of beach. Nightlife, though not as bustling as Boracay's, is found on the beach as well, with some dancing and small parties.

The Loboc River Cruise offers lunch to its patrons. Whether buffet-style or sit-down, lunch is served over a leisurely trip down Loboc River while being serenaded by a live band.

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Getting From A to B
Unlike most other places in the Philippines, jeepneys in Bohol are not as commonplace. One is more likely to see and use the tricycle to get around Tagbilaran and Panglao. If one chooses to take a taxi instead, it is best to charter them from the resort, as they can be difficult to come by.

Bohol is accessible by air or sea. It is about an hour's flight from Manila, and about 25 minutes from Cebu. One can also take a one and a half hour fast boat from Cebu.

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Tours

Site of blood compact

With many things to see and do in Bohol, it is no wonder that there are regular tours available to the traveller. The most common are the whale and dolphin watching tour, and the countryside tour.

While whales can be seasonal, the resident dolphins are almost a daily sighting with the right spotters in tow.

The countryside tour, which can follow the whale and dolphin watching tour, takes the traveller from Baclayon all the way to Carmen to see the Chocolate Hills. A lunch on the Loboc River is usually part of the package. It is worthwhile to note that these tours will usually take you to see tarsiers in captivity along the banks of the Loboc River. However, it should be noted that this is not the ideal place to see these wonderful creatures as the conditions under which they live are not ideal. Go to the tarsier sanctuary in Corella where they are protected and to see them in their natural habitat.

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Events
The month-long Sandugo Festival every July commemorates the blood compact between Sikatuna and Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. This is punctuated by balls and dances, beauty pageants, fairs, sports events, and the reenactment of the blood compact to signify the friendship formed between the Boholanos and the Spaniards.

Tagbilaran City celebrates its fiesta every May 1 honoring St. Joseph the Worker. Nine days prior, however, it is already a frenzy of dances, beauty pageants, and musical shows.

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Images courtesy of Colors Magazine