Taiwan travel guide

Taiwan guide

The emerald island lying just 160 kilometres off the Chinese mainland is a feisty character. It lives an uneasy existence, precariously overshadowed by its vast and uncompromising neighbour. Taiwan is a land at peace, but embroiled in one of the thorniest dilemmas of the East.

Originally populated by seafaring peoples from the Pacific islands and groups from the archipelago that today forms the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia, Taiwan remained a backwater for millennia. By the time the Portuguese dropped anchor in 1517 and christened it Ilha Formosa – Beautiful Island – it was being steadily settled by Fujianese from across the Strait, and displaying a predominantly Chinese population. In subsequent centuries, the Chinese, Spanish and Japanese were to play a game of musical chairs with the island until after World War II, when the newly formed United Nations decreed that Taiwan would be returned to China. But before that could happen, the communists won the bloody civil war on the mainland, the nationalists fled to the province of Taiwan and each side settle down to plot the other's downfall.

The dispute simmered for decades and the two governments were to diverge along very separate paths. Both sides have evolved into different entities, and much to China's indignation Taiwan did very well for itself. The economy boomed, leaving the sluggish mainland in its wake. Since taking control of its own affairs in the 1950s Taiwan has enjoyed an average GDP growth of 9 per cent a year, ensuring it emerged as one of the four 'tiger economies' alongside Hong Kong, Singapore and South Korea. Despite recent wobbles in the Asian financial arena, Taiwan remains financially robust and a major manufacturing base. Finally China is blossoming economically and, ironically, the greatest threat from across the Strait now looks to be cheap and inexhaustible labour rather than menacing missile launchers.

Currently Taiwan's international status is a grey area so its awkward position means it falls into a category all of its own. It exists in diplomatic no-man's-land. For the apolitical it is best described as an unofficial country. Taiwan never declared independence, and Beijing's non-negotiable stance is that Taiwan is a renegade province – and that reunification is inevitable. Chinese foreign policy is almost defined by the issue and takes a very dim view of anyone in the international community daring to treat Taiwan as a country. No country may maintain official diplomatic relations with both Taipei and Beijing and for the Taiwanese it has been a long diplomatic march into oblivion. Faced with the choice, only 27 nations now recognise Taiwan, most of which are Third World recipients of economic aid. Taiwan, incidentally, held the Chinese seat at the United Nations until 1971 when it was replaced by the PRC.

Despite the diplomatic slide, Taiwan booms and the capital Taipei encapsulates a boundless entrepreneurial energy. A sprawling, gritty metropolis, it is home to three million and known for its tide of zipping mopeds and – to be brutally honest – ugly architecture. Most visitors are here for business, but you do not need to look too hard to find pockets of tradition, impressive monuments, good food and uncommonly friendly inhabitants. Taipei also hosts the National Palace Museum, one of the best collections of Chinese artefacts in the world. Away from the big city are traditional temples and some prime hiking country. Majestic scenery exists along the east coast, across the dramatic mountainous interior and within national parks such as Taroko Gorge and Hsiukuluan River. Across the Strait are more islands dotted like stepping stones to China. From one, Kinmen, you can actually see the mainland.

Taiwan's hotels mirror its persona – functional business hotels with below-average architecture. First-class friendly service is a major plus even if English is not widespread. The best hotels are in the capital and the standards deteriorate pretty quickly outside, although there are some pockets of excellence.

Being comparatively small Taiwan shares a fairly uniform climate, with slight variations due to latitude and altitude. Generally speaking, the north and the mountainous regions are colder and wetter than the south. Despite its northerly latitude, the island experiences a tropical monsoon climate, seemingly drawing the leftovers of the various typhoons that have battered Southeast Asia. Most are dissipating by the time they get there but occasionally it is buffeted by vicious storms. Intermittent typhoons and torrential rains wash over Taiwan during the otherwise humid summer – roughly June to September – while the winter is mostly cold, blustery and cloudy. Taipei can be visited all year round, but like the rest of the country, is at its best around spring or autumn.

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