 Pattaya,
Thailand
City Guide
Introduction
| Beaches
| Other
Attractions | Entertainment
& Eating Out | Shopping
| Cyber
Pattaya | Getting
from A to B | Tours
| Tourist
Information Offices | Events
Introduction
In the 1960's, Pattaya, then a mere fishing village, was where
American GIs would take their R&R from the Vietnam War. Being just a few
hours from Bangkok, its popularity grew and the humble village soon gave
way to encroaching developments and was transformed into an urban jungle
with super highways, high-rise condominiums, hotels, and grand shopping
malls.
It is fair to say that Pattaya is no longer well endowed with natural
beauty, yet it remains one of the most popular holiday destinations in
Thailand. Much of its success lies in its reputation for offering vibrant
entertainment in a laid-back resort ambiance with its infamous nightlife
of go-go bars and beer gardens galore. Pattaya has become a Mecca for
single men seeking paid companionship and more, and the sight of young
Thai girls (and boys) on the arms of a foreigner is all too familiar.
That said, there is more to Pattaya than just 'sex and the city'. More
recently, efforts have been made to change its image with the addition
of more legitimate attractions like golf, horse riding, water-parks, convention
centres and grand botanical gardens. There is a bit of everything for
everyone in Pattaya now, and couples, as well as families, are a common
sight.
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Beaches
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For those with an affinity
for crystal clear waters and white sandy beaches, you will be hard pressed
to find them in Pattaya. The beaches range from average to downright disappointing.
Some of the better options include beaches found on Na Jomtien towards
Sattahip where the area is not fully developed and is still quite peaceful.
The water is not very clear but the beaches are long and wide, and the sand
is quite fine. Also, a big plus, they are empty of local vendors selling
drinks and deck chairs.
On Jomtien Beach you will need proper footwear to skip over broken
glass, leftover seafood and other unsavoury debris. The beach is lively
with water activities, as the locals seem to be more tolerant to the state
of the beach. At the end of Jomtien next to the police post is the small
Dong Tan beach named after the big leafed palm trees that line the promenade.
Like most of the beaches, it is packed with eager vendors who make you pay
for worn out sun loungers. With its obscure location the beach has many
masseurs for men and is popular with cruising gays.
The long stretch of beach from south Pattaya to central Pattaya is a beehive
of activity. The beach is swamped with all sorts of touts offering parasailing,
banana boat rides and boat tours to nearby islands, plus an array of drinks,
sarong and souvenir vendors. It is certainly not the place to lie out on
the sand, but the water activities offered are really good fun, albeit
a bit touristy.
Less crowded beaches can be found towards the north of Pattaya. The beaches
here are not spectacular but they are quiet and calm but still close enough
to all the action.
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Other
Attractions
A favorite past time
is golf. Green fees are relatively inexpensive and there are 18 golf courses
throughout Pattaya and nearby Chonburi. The crème de la crème
is Laem Chabang International Country Club, only 30 minutes out
of town. Designed by the legendary Jack Nicklaus, the course is one of
the best in Thailand with 27 holes against a mountainous backdrop and
plenty of water and sand hazards to challenge any golf enthusiast.
Another old favorite
is the over 30 year old Siam Country Club, just 20 minutes from
central Pattaya. The 18-hole fairways are lined with big mature trees
and there are plans to upgrade the greens and clubhouse facilities. The
scenic 27-hole Phoenix Golf and Country Club will dazzle golfers with
its dramatic sea views at the last 9 holes of the Ocean course. The 10-year-old
course is not for the faint-hearted and promises some exciting and extraordinary
holes. Note that it is worth trying to tee off on weekdays to avoid the
avid golfers coming from Bangkok on the weekend.
For culture vultures
a must-see is the magnificent wooden structure of the Sanctuary of
Truth. Located at the edge of Rachvate Cape, the venerable sanctuary
is a tribute to the ideas of religion, philosophy and art and is meant
to be a reminder to all of the importance of 'old values' and that life
is about more than just the accumulation of material wealth. Construction
began in 1981 but the ancient-looking structure feels as if it has existed
for centuries. With Thai, Cambodian, Chinese and Indian wooden sculptures,
history comes to life as guided tours take you through the story of each
civilization. The entrance fee is a hefty 500 Baht but this also includes
access to a dolphin show at the nearby lagoon. It is a bit sad as these
wild dolphins are kept in captivity for human amusement. The dolphins
are very shy and you will be lucky to catch even a glimpse of them. So
much for 'old values'.
Flora and fauna lovers
would find the Nong Nooch Tropical Garden an interesting stop.
It will take at least half a day to cover the entire botanical gardens
and along the way there are elephant rides, pedal boats, a mini zoo and
cultural shows to catch. Tour groups come in busloads, and, while the
colorful flowers and soothing greens are enticing, it is primarily an
activity for those with green thumbs.
A more interesting
and educational walk in the park for both kids and adults is at the Mini
Siam. Here is a chance to see up to 60 miniature models of Thailand's
monuments, temples and landmarks all in one place. A section is also dedicated
to some Europe's familiar icons.
Do not forget to include
horseback riding on the list of things to do. There are a few riding
stables around and the most upscale is the Horseshoe Point Resort and
Country Club with rides that take you around 1,500 acres of trails and
gardens. Weekend rates are slightly more expensive than rates on weekdays
and there are additional costs for guides and rental of accessories. A
better value for money and a more personal experience is with Willi Netzer,
owner of Outdoor Riding Stable Pattaya. Willi guides all his riding trips
on a scenic trail and throws in lessons about understanding horses. Plus
the free roundtrip transfer is very convenient.
The Elephant Village
is a retirement home for working elephants. With their logging days
over, these elephants now provide entertainment and rides to visitors.
It is worth going just to support these gentle beasts.
If in the area, Wat
Phra Yai or Big Buddha is quite a sight. The temple is an active
place of worship so few tourists venture there. Just next to it is Wat
Khao Phra Baht, the place to go for a bird's eye view of Pattaya.
It is hard to resist
the water activities that are readily available along Pattaya Beach. In
particular parasailing is the most thrilling for first timers. For US$10,
the two-minute glide is no cheap thrill but it is an exhilarating one.
Banana boats, jet skis and speedboats are also available for rent. If
rides are what you are after, the Pattaya Park has a choice of
Tower Jump or Speed Shuttle for those who dare. Carousel rides are also
available for children and the water park provides hours of fun.
The Ripley's Believe
It or Not entertainment centre has a roller coaster ride that is just
like the real thing only it comes in the form of a 3D moving theater.
The museum also features a collection of curios and bizarre sights like
the three-legged horse and the man with two sets of pupils in each eye.
All in all, quite mind-boggling and highly entertaining.
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Entertainment
and Eating Out
While there are
parades of restaurants along the entire stretch of the Pattaya Beach area,
fine dining venues are few and far between and are generally found in the
5 star hotels. Of the independent restaurants, top on the list is the small
and lively Mata Hari (located on Pattaya 2 Road). The owner is Dutch
and the restaurant, though not upscale, has a quaint European café
ambiance. The service is impeccable and there is a wide choice of Thai and
European cuisine. The restaurant is often full, so make reservations to
secure a place.
Another casual European
café-style restaurant is the French-owned Saint Tropez.
The restaurant is located off Pattaya 2 Road, down an obscure lane near
the Green Bottle Pub. Everything about the café is distinctively
French: the menu, the music and the chef having an aperitif at the bar.
Specialties of the south should not be missed like the Toulouse Cassoulet,
and for dessert the light Saint Tropez cake is a perfect sweet ending.
After dinner the evening continues with a nightcap or two at the Saint
Tropez Bar. An authentic taste of France and excellent value for money.
For slightly more
upscale dining, the cosy Swiss-managed Bruno's Restaurant and Wine
Bar offers a mix of international cuisine and boasts a well-stocked wine
cellar with over 100 labels. The Italian restaurant La Gritta at the Amari
Orchid Hotel offers decent, albeit slightly pricey, Italian meals. Maharani
Indian Restaurant at the Royal Cliff Beach Resort has a contemporary Indian
setting with a full range of Indian dishes. Set in a tropical rain forest
is the charming Sugar Hut that wins even the locals' vote for best Thai
food after the Thai restaurant at the Cabbages and Condoms resort.
[Note: Cabbages and Condoms was set up to raise money to help deal with
the AIDS and other issues in Thailand. The association that runs it also
has another very successful restaurant in Bangkok.]
Seafood is also readily
available in Pattaya and many local restaurants as well as hotels offer
seafood BBQ at an affordable price. An extremely basic local restaurant
is the hut-like Luang Sawai located at the end of Jomtien Beach.
The table right at the edge of the beach is a nice spot and menus are
in English. Dishes are cooked the Thai way and you can eat as much as
you like for very little money. Also on Jomtien and slightly fancier is
Nang Nual, a restaurant frequented by locals with waitress dressed as
sailors and laminated menus with colored pictures. The food is not too
bad but a little more costly. The Lobster Pot on Walking Street has good
seafood as well but it is overpriced and a tad too touristy.
Those who are not
so adventurous with food can seek solace at the Royal Garden Plaza.
Here you can find familiar favourites like the 24 hour Burger King, McDonald's,
Haagen Dazs ice cream, Auntie Anne's pretzels and Sizzlers all under one
roof.
When it comes to nightlife
in Pattaya, the go-go bars and beer gardens dominate. Most of the bars
are concentrated on Walking Street and in between the small lanes
along Beach Road. There is nothing discreet about the bars, the
dimmed red lights and seedy ambiance is the same almost everywhere. Aside
from the bars, the Excite Discotheque is the most talked about in town
with a good mix of sophisticated tourist and local clientele. The crowd
at Hollywood Disco has more locals and the party can get rowdy at times
with occasional fights. The Hard Rock Café has a daily live
band, and on weekends foam parties that offer 'bubbles of fun'.
Transvestite shows
are oh-so-big in Pattaya and you have not seen Pattaya if you have not
been to one. Some of the girl/boys are drop dead gorgeous and almost should
be in Ripley's Believe It or Not. It does not really matter whether it
is the Alcazar or Tiffany Show - the performance is hardly the Moulin
Rouge but they are still entertaining. During the one hour song and dance
routine, forget about trying to spot any tell tale signs of masculinity
- it is not going to be obvious. Attend only if you can bring an open
mind.
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Shopping
Shopping in
Pattaya is not very exciting but the little that is available is surprisingly
good plus the friendliness of the shopkeepers makes browsing quite pleasant.
The Royal Garden Plaza is the most upscale mall and although the
shops are not exceptional, there are a few bargains to be found. You can
shop in air-conditioned comfort at the little stalls in Mike's shopping
centre. Reasonable quality imitation T-shirts, shirts and bags go for
a song here and all without hard bargaining. The roadside stalls along
Beach Road and Pattaya 2 Road offer mainly souvenirs and pirated CD's
and VCD's. With the growing number of residents in Pattaya there are several
supermarkets available as well, like Big C, Tesco, Lotus and Tops.
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Cyber
Pattaya
Pattaya is well-connected and internet services can be found along Pattaya
Beach and Jomtien Beach. There are no trendy cyber cafes per se but what
is available is inexpensive with decent connection speed.
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Getting
From A to B
The main local
transport in Pattaya are the Song Thaews, these red pick ups are
easily spotted and can take you to just about anywhere. The fares per person
range from 10 Baht for short distances to about 100 - 200 Baht for longer
distances. The general benchmark for locals is half the price for tourists.
The drivers do not rip you off too much but bargaining skills are still
good to have.
There are many one-way
streets in Pattaya and motorcycle taxis come in handy as they maneuver
through oncoming traffic. This is illegal but riders take the risk when
the police are not on watch. It is the cheapest and fastest way to zip
around but you need nerves of steel. A helmet is required at all times
for motorcycles.
Motorcycle and car
rentals are very common, and reliable international rental companies
like Avis and Budget are available. Local vendors with cheap rentals are
tempting. However, make sure the vehicles are in good condition and report
any scratches and marks before renting to avoid finger pointing, and get
valid insurance.
The most economical
way to get to Pattaya from Bangkok is via the air-conditioned buses.
Bangkok Ekamai Bus Terminal has coaches leaving every 30 minutes from
5.30 am to 9.00 pm at a nominal fare of 90 Baht. The trip is a comfortable
2-hour ride and the bus terminal in Pattaya has plenty of waiting Song
Thaews for transfers to the hotels.
From Bangkok Airport,
Thai International Airways offers limo service at about 1,500 Baht
per way. Alternatively, local taxi companies can take you there for a
slightly cheaper fare and you can even find better deals from Pattaya
back to Bangkok.
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Tours
Pattaya itself may not
have the best beaches, but nearby there are several pristine islands with
incredible coral reefs. The most popular is Koh Larn, about 8 kilometres
away or 45 minutes by boat. The island is host to many white sandy beaches,
the most tranquil being the 700-metre Laem Thian beach in the south-western
side followed by the lively 750-metre Ta Waen Beach in the north. In addition
to the usual water activities like parasailing and jet-skiing, glass bottom
boats reveal bejewelled treasures of colorful corals.
The adjacent rocky
island of Ko Krok has a small beach and is one of the best spots
for snorkelling. It is worth noting that both Ko Larn and Ko Krok are
most crowded during the high season and on weekends.
There is a string
of islands about 20-30 kilometres away or 2 hours by boat from Pattaya
known as the "Far Islands." They have untouched beaches and
extraordinary dive sites. The islands include Koh Rin, Koh Man Wichai,
Koh Keung Badaan, Koh Hu Chang and Koh Pai. The Mermaid Dive Centre
offers trips to explore the underwater landscape and a chance to catch
a glimpse of barracudas, tunas, stingrays and moray eels.
Shipwreck Dives
take adventurers to the final resting place of ships like The Hardeep,
which is a cargo ship that sunk during World War II. Other wrecks include
the Petchburi Bremen, an old freighter and now a hiding place for groupers
and barracudas.
Half-day tours to
places of interest like the Million Years Stone Park slightly outside
of Pattaya, or Discovery Tours to local markets and oyster farms are also
available.
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Tourist
Information Office
There
is a Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) office along Thappaya
Road up on the hill near the King Rama IX Royal Park. It is quite a trip
getting to the office but the level of spoken English is reasonably good.
A Tourist Police Post is on Dong Tan Beach and several more along Pattaya
Beach provide decent information. Most hotels and restaurants have free
copies of maps and guide magazines readily available.
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Events
The most celebrated
festival is the mid -April Thai New Year or Songkran. The highlight
of the event is the water festival where passers-by are drenched with
water, a sign of blessing and indeed a refreshing welcome from the hot
sun. During this time the Pattaya Festival is also celebrated with beauty
contests, floral floats, local delicacies and sandcastle competitions.
The Music Festival
of Pattaya is held annually with 3 days of live band concerts from musicians
all over the world. Another yearly special event is the Miss Tiffany Universe
contest held to promote the Amazing Thailand campaign. The winner gets
to represent Thailand in the main Miss Queen of the Universe contest where
transvestites from all over the world compete.
A somewhat different
beauty contest - the Chonburi Buffalo race - is held every October and
brings together farmers and their prized buffaloes to compete for best-decorated
and fastest buffaloes.
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