Introduction

Hua Hin's city skyline

Hua Hin and the neighbouring town of Cha-am are best described as small sleepy seaside resort towns. They are to Bangkok what Brighton is to London or the Hamptons are to New York. Initially for the rich and famous, the area flourished with the expansion of the railways giving access to the masses. Being only 2 to 3 hours drive down the Gulf of Thailand, the towns offer a close retreat of sharp contrast to the hustle of Thailand's capital and as such their personalities change as the hordes arrive at weekends with many hotels being full. Hua Hin has the added credibility of being the favoured resort of the Thai royal family; indeed the current king spends much of his time in residence there.

The skyline of the coast has been somewhat blighted by the indiscriminate building of high-rise condominiums in the building boom of the early 1990s. Predominant between Cha-am and Hua Hin, these holiday homes for the city folk are complete eyesores on what could be an attractive coastline. The subsequent Asian financial crisis of the late 1990s has led many to become run down and quite unattractive.

More recently the area has opened up beyond the local market to an evolving international audience. Favoured by cheap package tours, especially from Europe and in particular Scandinavia, it is not uncommon to see coach loads pouring into hotels to escape the European winter. Cha-am is aimed particularly at the cheap end of the market whilst Hua Hin, with a wider range of hotels and spas, caters for all markets. Increasingly more sophisticated independent travellers are also seeing Hua Hin as an acceptable escape especially during the peak seasons of Christmas, Chinese New Year and Easter - to cater for this market international chains are opening up new top end quality resorts.

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Attractions
With over half a dozen courses dotted around the town, Hua Hin is a golfers' paradise and many just come to play day-in and day-out. All the courses are well maintained as one has come to expect in Thailand. The closest to the town is Royal Hua Hin Golf Course just behind the railway station in the town centre and was Thailand's first golf course. Others include the 27 hole Lakeview, which has its own hotel so addicts need not stray far, the Jack Nicklaus-designed Springfield Royal Country Club, Palm Hills, just 15 minutes from Hua Hin, Majestic Creek and Bangkok Milford. Green fees are a real bargain and the fairways are never busy although weekends are more crowded. Guests staying on the course usually enjoy significant discounts on playing fees.

Other than golf, Hua Hin and the surrounding area has little to offer and most visitors never even venture from their resorts, especially as most now have spa services in situ. The town itself is fun to walk around in the evening with its night market dedicated to selling tee shirts, trinkets and copy products.

Elephant polo

As a resort town most attractions and activities centre around the beach. Well-kept horses are available for trekking on the beach for a few dollars an hour and a wide variety of water sports are on offer from jet skiing, hobie sailing, banana boating and parasailing. The motorised sports areas are sensibly fenced off from the main swimming areas. The beaches themselves are not stunning and in many cases have been eroded away completely. At high tide the sand area can be very limited. The best public beach is at the centre of Hua Hin in front of the Sofitel Hotel. Other good stretches are usually in front of the bigger resorts. Deck chairs and umbrellas are often available for hire.

Other attractions within the town include the quaint railway station, which is straight out of the 1930s with the king's private waiting room and a restored locomotive. Nearby is the beautifully restored Railway Hotel now run by Sofitel. The delightful grounds, drifting piano music and afternoon tea set take you back to a bygone era. The king's palace is also in town towards the north near the airport. It is no longer open to the public as the king spends much of the time in residence. The surrounding area is densely policed so approaching the palace is difficult.

Towards the south of the town are two hills. Mount Khao Takaip or 'Chopstick Hill' offers sweeping views of Hua Hin from its summit. Nearby Khao Krailat has a collection of Buddha images within the temple at its peak.

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Entertainment and Eating Out

The Pala-U falls

The food in Hua Hin is not gourmet. Upscale restaurants are limited and the best cuisine is found in the hotels. Visitors generally cocoon themselves in their resorts and rarely sample the outside restaurants. Most well known are the series of seafood pier eateries offering basic but good al fresco dining in a fun environment. Sandwiched between the Hilton hotel and the main fishing pier, the food is fresh, great value and the ambience is unusual, if a little basic.

Also offering cheap food in a hawker-type setting are the food stalls in Satukarn Square near the railway station. Seafood again dominates the menu and it is convenient for those shopping at the night markets.

Around town are numerous restaurants offering a complete range of food including Thai, Italian, Indian, French, American and more. None are exceptional, however they offer steady fare but in some cases the menus are limited. One highlight is Supatras on the south side of town near Khao Takaip, which offers a delightful setting and an extensive good value menu. As the town develops in sophistication no doubt better quality restaurants will appear.

Thailand's infamous entertainment industry has yet to assault Hua Hin and there is still a peaceful sense of innocence in the evening. However the market is changing and go-go girlie bars are beginning to appear. Generally sandwiched in the narrow streets around Soi Bintabaht, the numerous bars are currently small and unobtrusive. More in your face is the Doi Boy Cabaret offering a transvestite dance show for diners. Throughout the town foot and Thai massages are a welcome relief for those over-walked shoppers.

The hotels lay on much of the entertainment. Many have live music and offer a range of activities to keep guests occupied. Spas are almost universally available, although the quality does vary from a straight massage to full hydrotherapy and oil treatments. Chiva Som is one of the internationally renowned 'well being' resorts offering over 80 treatments and full lifestyle guidance.

For those needing a speed rush after a tranquil day at the beach, there is a well-maintained go-cart track near the airport.

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Shopping
If you are coming to Hua Hin for a shopping spree, you will leave disappointed. It is certainly recommended to get your shopping done in Bangkok where the selection is far more extensive. Naretdamri and some of the surrounding roads near the Hilton Hotel offer a small selection of boutique-type shops but there is not much variety. The night market provides tourists with a steady supply of tee shirts, leather wallets and copy goods. 24-hour tailors offer anything from casual shirts to suits in the latest fashion, as ever these services carry a serious quality warning. If Hua Hin has little to offer, Cha-am has less.

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Cyber Hua Hin
Internet cafes are widespread and rates are very competitive. There is no particular cyber district, Internet cafes are found every 4 or 5 blocks or so.

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Getting From A to B

The royal waiting room at Hua Hin Railway Station

Hua Hin itself is small and compact. Those staying within the town can easily get around by foot. Tuk Tuk style buses and taxi motorbikes are readily available. Charges are around Baht 40 to 100 for a local journey depending on the length. This is about twice what the locals pay. Car taxis are also available, usually it's a local trying to make some money on the side so do not expect a meter and negotiate hard before you start your journey. Hotels offer transport but expect to pay significantly more than the outside market.

Many of the hotels outside town offer regular shuttles to and from town, particularly in the evening when most people like to visit. From some the service is complimentary, others charge.

To get to Hua Hin most drive down Route 4 from Bangkok. The journey of 2 to 3 hours is rather unspectacular but smooth although the Bangkok end can add significantly to the journey time if you hit traffic. Hotels charge as much as Baht 6000 for the return trip in upscale cars. Local companies hire out comfortable vans for about Baht 1500 a day including driver but petrol is additional.

2001 saw the opening of Hua Hin airport. It is mainly served by domestic flights although International links to Hong Kong and Singapore are planned. The flight takes 40 minutes from Bangkok.

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Tours
Sam Roi Yot Park or the Park of 300 peaks lies 80 km south of Hua Hin. The 98 sq km National Park is a network of waterways and plains prone to flooding. The marshlands offer an abundance of flora and fauna and are reputed to be an excellent site for bird watching. The area provides a diverse ecosystem of beaches, islands, limestone caves and marshy wetlands. There is a park office, which provides information and guides, however many of the tour operators offer excursions to the park. One highlight of the park is Phraya Nakhon Cave.

About 70 kilometres west of Hua Hin are the Pala-U Falls. The 2 waterfalls of 11 tiers provide a small diversion from the beach and give visitors an opportunity to see local village life. Further a field tours to the River Kwai and its bridge of World War II fame are also available to visitors.

One popular tour is the Seaview Safari that includes an elephant trek, visit to local tribes and panoramic views of Hua Hin.

Enroute back to Bangkok north of Cha-am, the road passes close to Phetchaburi. The town is dominated by Khao Wang (Palace Mountain) whose temples and palaces are some of the most photographed in the region. If one has to prise oneself away from the beach an excursion is considered worthwhile.

Other tours include sea trips by Sunseekers Tours and a variety of action pursuits from parachuting to jungle activities. Information is available though brochures at the hotels.

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Tourist Information Offices
The tourist office is situated on the corner of Phetchakasem Road and Damnern Kasem Road. The desk has a collection of brochures and maps but adds little value by way of assistance. It is generally best to pick up a copy of one of the free maps to get guidance on what's on and where. Cha-am has a tourist office off the main beach road at the Rat Phli Road junction.

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Events

Hua Hin's fishing boats

Hua Hin's biggest event (quite literally) is elephant polo. Held at the Pradiphat Pine Forest at Suan Son south of Hua Hin the tournament attracts teams from all over the world. Other popular events include a local jazz festival and the Hua Hin/Cha-am Golf Festival. For timing of these events it is best to check with the Tourism Authority of Thailand as the dates move around.

The whole area really takes off during national holidays when Bangkok seems to arrive en mass at the resorts. Getting rooms at these times can be almost impossible. The Kings Birthday (Dec 5), Songkran Water Festival (April) and all the major public holidays especially around Christmas, Chinese New Year and Easter are very busy periods.

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