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 Kunming, China

City Guide

Introduction   |   Attractions   |   Tours   |   Shopping   |   Nightlife and Eating Out   |   Getting Around   |   Events

Introduction

Modern Kunming
Modern Kunming

Sitting atop a high plateau in Yunnan is the provincial capital city of Kunming. Originally a trading post and later a strategic position for the Burma Road in WWII, Kunming today is a popular tourist destination offering a host of activities.

Known as the "city of eternal spring" due to the consistently pleasant climate and the flowers that bloom all year-round, Kunming and the surrounding area offers a wealth of natural beauty spots, local legends, history, handicrafts and the opportunity to see a variety of traditional ethnic Chinese groups.

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Attractions
Although most of the area has been taken over with modern buildings and little is left of the original Kunming, it is a pleasant city to stroll around. Visitors will still stumble across pockets of old style houses in amongst the new - many of these low-rise, rickety wooden buildings are home to shop fronts creating an air of times gone by.

Green Lake (Cuiha) Park is a very popular destination for locals, particularly on Sundays when large family groups gather to picnic, mess around on the water in pedal boats or simply stroll around the small lakes. A few restaurants and shops are dotted around and if you get there early in the morning, it is possible to see locals practising the ancient art of Tai Chi.

Various temples and mosques are situated around the city; sadly, not many are in tiptop condition having been damaged or converted during the Cultural Revolution.

One of the main Buddhist temples and the site of major pilgrimages, is the approximately 1,000 year old Yuantong Temple situated close to Cuiha Park. There have been many renovations over the years and very little of the original temple buildings remain. However, it is still worth a visit to see the old structures and to walk through the aromatic mist of incense sticks that burn in offering at the entrance.

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Tours

Yuantong Temple
Yuantong Temple

The Bamboo Temple is thought to be one of the first Buddhist temples to have been built in Yunnan. Situated 12km out of town, this temple is famed for its 500 life-sized Luohan sculptures of Buddhist monks - many of which are said to actually characterise monks who lived in the area. Each is unique, with a multitude of facial expressions ranging from amusing to austere to the rather grotesque!

The journey to the temple grounds can be made by bus, private mini-van or taxi. The more adventurous may wish to hire a bicycle and brave the strenuous ride up into the hills.

Set in a picturesque wooded area about 10km northeast of Kunming is the 17th Century Daoist Golden Temple. Those with the energy to make the steep ascent will be rewarded by a glimpse of the largest copper and bronze temple in China which shimmers in the sunlight as if it were gold - take bus no.10 from North Railway Station.

Approximately 26 ethnic groups reside in Yunnan, many of which are represented in the Yunnan Minorities Village. Set up along the lines of a theme park, the village affords the opportunity to glimpse a simulated taste of minority group life. Traditional costumes abound along with theatres hosting cultural performances filled with music and dance. The village is situated beside Lake Dianchi - take bus no.44 from the railway station.

The picturesque Lake Dianchi is the sixth largest lake in China and offers some spectacular views with the chance for a spot of hiking. It is possible to take a boat trip on the lake and guides are available to enthrall with tales of local legends. Adding to the atmosphere are the commonly seen traditional junk boats bobbing across the water.

Daguan or Grand View Park is just 3km from Kunming and a great place to take in the natural beauty of Lake Danchi from the Daguan Tower and to view typical Chinese-style pavilions.

On the west bank of Lake Dianchi lies the Western Mountains Forest Park. Three towering mountains dominate the landscape of this vast forest reserve and trails are along winding paths cut perilously into the hillside. Home to a number of temples, the area is probably best known for Dragon Gate, which is actually carved into the rock face - visitors hang precariously from the sheer cliff edge to take in the great views of Lake Dianchi.

The cable car ride ferrying sightseers up and down the slopes is a great way to take in the scenery, as long as you don't mind the tinny music blasting out at certain points along the way! The ride also passes over the mini-stone forest. A lot of walking is involved in getting to many of the sights but it is possible to see a lot by taking the cable car and also by making use of the small toy-train shuttling people up and down the hillside.

Shilin Stone Forest
Shilin Stone Forest

The most famous attraction by far is the vast Stone Forest. This natural phenomenon situated some 112 miles south of Kunming comprises Karst rock formations creating a natural landscape of high, odd shaped stone peaks accompanied by a multitude of legends and tales. It can get rather busy and is definitely worthwhile exploring away from the main areas.

Many organised tours arrange this day trip but time at the forest area can be limited since the journey tends to be broken with lunch and shopping stops along the way! The journey by road should take two hours and it is possible to get there by bus leaving from the long distance bus station or by train from South Railway Station.

The FIT office (Family and Independent Traveller) is a good travel service that provides useful general information and also gives assistance with organising trips/tours.

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Shopping
There are a vast array of shopping outlets in Kunming from department stores to market vendors. Fashionable clothing boutiques can be found along Zhengyi and Qingnian Road, whilst souvenirs and antiques are available at the Bird and Flower Market.

Of the many different items available in Kunming some are distinctive to the area. These include jade, silk, batik, brassware and woodcarvings. Also popular are marble objects that originate in Dali and of course, the famed Yunnan tea and coffee.

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Nightlife and Eating Out
A host of eateries are available from Asian to Western, traditional to modern. It is possible to find something to suit most tastes and is also a great place to try out the local specialities.

Amongst the local fare on offer is the filling, tasty and above all cheap, Dao Xiao Mian noodle soup. Another common dish is the rather spicy Doe Zi consisting of shredded potatoes cooked with chillies.

A host of eateries
A host of eateries

Extremely popular with locals and tourists alike is Hot Pot - an array of raw foods are delivered to the table for the diner to cook in a large boiling pot vegetarians beware as these affairs are usually for the carnivorous amongst us and some of the meats are fairly unrecognisable!

There are also some great opportunities to try dishes from other Chinese regions such as Sichuan being notoriously hot and spicy, this cooking is not for the faint-hearted!

The number of international residents in the area makes for an even wider choice of food and there are some pizza places serving great pizza from wood fired ovens! Muslim fare (Xinjiang) can also be tried, particularly in the restaurants along the quaint back street Shuncheng Jie.

Many of the large hotels offer entertainment in the form of bars, karaoke and night-clubs, however other spots can also be found around town. The central area has witnessed the emergence of many new caf bars and discotheques creating popular districts such as Kandu and around Yunnan University, which come to life at night.

Other attractions include cinemas, an indoor swimming pool, a roller skating rink and three golf courses within half an hour's drive of the main city area.

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Getting Around
One of the best pieces of advice for getting around Kunming if you don't speak Chinese is to carry a map or card with your destination written in Chinese characters. Very few people speak English well and it saves a lot of problems if you can just show people where you want to go!

Taxis are fairly reliable and reasonably priced. Fares are metred and based on the distance travelled. You may want to bargain for a fixed price if you think that you can get a better deal.

A number of buses ply various routes in and around the city and are reasonably easy to use, although it is worthwhile asking at FIT or your hotel for the relevant bus
Daguan Park
Daguan Park
numbers and location of stops. All destinations have a minimal standard fare to be paid upon embarkation.

There are two railway stations in Kunming linking the city with various destinations in China the North and the South stations. Tickets can either be purchased from FIT or by going to the ticket counter at the train station. The ticket counter may be a rather stressful option since queues tend to be chaotic and the language barrier can be problematic. Nevertheless, it can be quite good fun!

Getting to and from the International Airport should not cause too many difficulties. The journey takes about 15 minutes - taxis line up outside the terminal waiting for a fare. There is also a good shuttle bus service that drops off/picks up at set locations around the city.

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Events
Owing to the large number of minority groups inhabiting Yunnan, there are many festivals throughout the year, most of which tend to be held close to minority group villages and not in Kunming. However, there are some spin-off events in and around the city itself. It is worth checking with the FIT office for information regarding events.

Chinese New Year usually takes place at the end of January/beginning of February and celebrates the arrival of the new lunar year. Festivities normally include parades and lion dances - be prepared for the deafening release of firecrackers throughout the three-day celebration. It is a huge holiday in China and many services and shops are closed over this period.

Celebrated mainly in the Xishuangbanna region is the Water Splashing Festival which attracts a multitude of onlookers each year. This Dai festival takes place in April, lasts for 3 days and includes dragon boat racing, dancing, markets and fireworks. The third day is when everyone gets wet! Much water throwing takes place to wash away demons and wish future good fortune and long life.

Festivities in Kunming
Festivities in Kunming

The Torch Festival is held at the Stone Forest towards the end of June. The Yi minority group lights torches in order to ward off evil spirits. This is a great spectacle along with wrestling matches, bullfights and horse racing events.

The Mid Autumn Festival commemorates a call to arms to revolt against the Mongols when the message was spread by being placed in a moon cake (an extremely rich cake made from lotus or sesame seeds with an egg yolk inside). Many people flock to high places with lanterns - Daguan Park is a popular venue at this time.


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