 Xian,
China
City Guide
Introduction
| Attractions
| Entertainment
& Eating Out | Shopping
| Cyber
Xian | Getting
from A to B | Tours
| Events
| Tours
Introduction
Xian provides China a rich historical and cultural backdrop. From
the 11th century BC, an astonishing eleven dynasties including the Han,
Sui, Tang, Ming and Qin ruled from here. Emperor Qin Shihuang, who united
the whole of China, made Xian his seat of power. At this time all roads
led to Xian, which became the last stop on the famed trade route of the
Silk Road. As a center of international trade many forms of commerce passed
through the city giving it a truly multi-cultural society.
Found
within the now rather isolated and arid province of Shaanxi, modern-day
Xian is polluted and industrial due to its fast pace of modernization,
like so many capitalist driven cities of 21st century China. Today it
is difficult to believe that Xian once challenged such cities as Rome
for the title of the greatest city in the world and that for thousands
of years this booming metropolis was unrivalled in Asia. Not much remains
of its grand legacy, though it is one of the few cities in this vast land
that still has an intact city wall. It is, however, the world renowned
Terracotta Warriors that put Xian on the map, making it an essential part
of any trip to China. These dramatic guardians of the buried Emperor Qin
provide a fascinating insight into the ancient dynasties and their intriguing
cultures. Rivalling such attractions as the Great Wall and Forbidden City,
few leave Xian without being impressed by the sheer beauty and audacious
scale of this buried army.
With so much history, there is a lot to do in Xian and the surrounding
Shaanxi County, indeed several weeks could be spent absorbing everything.
However, two to four days are usually enough for most visitors to sample
what the city has to offer, with many treating Xian as a side trip when
visiting the capital, Beijing.
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Attractions
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The Terracotta
army no doubt is Xian's main draw. Housed about 45 minutes from the city
center by car or a little over 1 hour away by coach, the warriors give an
impressive insight into the importance Xian once had on the world stage.
Arranged tours are more convenient as all entrance and transport fees are
included from the start. Most can be booked through the major hotels.
Three main buildings make up the tour. The first is more a museum with display
cases housing some of the finer pieces from the excavation with a background
on the different types of warriors provided. Within the second building,
the largest of the three, the magnificence of the Terracotta Warriors
can be seen. The tour leaders provide wonderful theories as to how the "army"
ended up entombed here as well as plenty of information on the site's excavation
and the measures used for preservation. The last building displays more
of the army in its regimental layout with horses and chariots, a
stark contrast from the second building with all its row upon row of warriors.
This last building is very much work in progress as excavation is still
underway.
The gift shop and canteen are good for a break after the long stroll through
the buildings. Be aware as much of what is on offer are poor replicas sold
at exorbitant prices. There are some terracotta pieces supposedly unearthed
from the dig site, however, their authenticity remains very suspect. Also
note Customs laws regarding the exporting of artifacts are strict in China
and you may be inconvenienced at the airport.
Also in the same area as the Terracotta army is the tomb of Emperor Qin
Shihuang covered by a small mound of earth. It is yet to be uncovered as
there is a lack of sufficient machinery and techniques to excavate the tomb,
reportedly full of booby traps and automatic crossbows.
The Bell and Drum
Towers are the centerpieces of the city itself with the ancient wall
providing a suitable backdrop. These two buildings functioned as timekeepers
for the residents at dawn and dusk, but later became more useful in warning
of impending wars or invaders something of a necessity given Xian's past.
The Great
Mosque was built for the many Muslim traders who caravanned the Silk
Road to Xian. It is reputed to be one of the largest Islamic buildings in
China and is still an active place of worship today. Surrounded by gardens,
the mosque is built in a Chinese style and sits in the Moslem quarter of
the city. The main prayer hall leads to many other pagodas and rooms to
explore and investigate with centuries old carvings and furniture.
Big Goose Pagoda and Small Goose Pagoda are both linked to
modern Buddhism. The Big Goose Pagoda was originally a temple built by Emperor
Li Zhi in memory of his mother whilst Small Goose Pagoda's construction
paid homage to Emperor Gao Zong. After many wars and degradation, both were
rebuilt by monks and eventually became places for housing the Buddhist scriptures
brought from India and painstakingly translated into Chinese.
Ban Po Village is purportedly one of the best examples
of a Neolithic settlement and matriarchal village in China. Over 6,000 years
old, excavations have unearthed 40 or more houses, kilns, cellars and over
250 graves - all on display. A tour of the village can be incorporated with
the Terracotta Warriors and/or Huaqing Hot Springs. Its location is approximately
30 minutes from the city centre.
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The rather disappointing
Huaqing Hot Springs was Emperor Qin's holiday residence. Don't expect
to find a grand ambience of a royal retreat as many of the bathhouses and
springs have since dried up, with the natural resources having been diverted
to a nearby village. However, for a small fee, you can still experience
the spring water from two fountains towards the back of the complex. An
amusing history lesson can be had just behind the springs where Li Shan
or Black Horse Mountain stands. From his headquarters in the foothills,
revolutionary leader Chiang Kai Shek was chased on barefoot in the shivering
cold by his own men at the height of civil unrest in China in 1936; he was
captured but freed days after upon orders of Stalin himself. Further up
the meandering path is a temple dedicated to Nu Wa, whom Taoists believe
created the human race.
Forest of Stone Steles Museum is an interesting Confucian temple
offering works of ancient literature, philosophy, historical annals and
calligraphy - all engraved in stone tablets and pillars found throughout
the museum. The temple is located within the city centre by the South Gate.
A calligraphy museum can be seen along the way.
Those interested in historical artifacts can head to the Shaanxi History
Museum, located northwest of Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Apart from rarities
dating from the Paleolithic and New Stone ages, visitors can also find murals,
terracotta figures, bronze objects, gold and silver vessels amongst a plethora
of cultural finds. This two-storey Tang Dynasty style museum also has a
display of relics from the past dynasties that have all ruled from Shaanxi
province.
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Entertainment
and Eating Out
There is no
distinct taste that describes the cuisine offered in Xian. Influenced
by the multi-cultural society, specialties cover a varied range from Muslim-inspired
dishes to spicy, cold Sichuan style; and from elaborate Tang Dynasty banquets
to simple but tasty buns, dumplings and mutton soup sold in street stalls.
With the large Islamic population, there are lots of Muslim inspired dishes.
Xi'An Lao Sun's Restaurant, found on East Road no. 364, next to
Royal Hotel, is one of the most popular choices for this type of cuisine.
You will need somebody who speaks Putonghua and true enough there is a
sign on the wall in this restaurant requesting patrons to "please only
speak Putonghua" which gives an idea to the many mix of people and languages
that are found in Xian. Cold chicken with spices and chilli and peanut
sauce, a popular dish from neighbouring Sichuan, is best tried in
any Chinese restaurant. The Sheraton or Shangri-La hotels both have gourmet
Chinese restaurants where the cuisine is very authentic but also expensive.
For real local delicacies go to Tang Shan Gong on the second or
third floor of Xian Hotel 298 East Road. Note the first floor only serves
cold dishes for appetizer and main courses. Translation is also required
here and you need to go early, whether for lunch or dinner as it gets
very busy and kitchens close early. This seems to be the norm for most
other restaurants in town, starting dinner early and closing kitchens
early, usually around 9:30 pm.
Street stalls are recommended for great snacking. Late night drinks can
be had in the back alley by the South gate, which is opposite the ANA
Grand Castle Hotel.
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Shopping
Shopping is
not generally notable in Xian as the attractions remain to be the key
selling points of the city. Not even the flood of terracotta souvenirs
sold everywhere are that enticing as most of the items are poor in quality
and may tend to break in transit. There are plenty of curio shops selling
these inexpensive mementos.
Though not wide spread,
a few department stores can be found by the Bell Tower and along
the East and West Road. East Road offers many retail shops for clothes and
shoes ranging from sports wear to casual and business attire.
Behind the Drum Tower in the Muslim quarter you will find lots of antique
and curio shops as well as cheap tourist goods. This area is a great source
of souvenirs. Haggling is recommended. Check all goods before you take them
away and if you feel you've found a real bargain that may be valuable, make
sure you get the receipt, as it might be an issue at Customs on departure.
This is certainly the case at the Terracotta warrior's gift
shop. The authenticity of the replicas found in the shop tends to be questionable.
However in one section with glass cabinets and display cases, you might
find some genuine art pieces. You must get a receipt from the shop as Customs
at Xianyuan Airport love to rummage through your bags and see what you've
bought and may even ask you to declare it and charge you for it (this is
where the receipt is handy).
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Getting
From A to B
Taxis
are the best for foreigners to get around in. Very cheap and moderately
clean and comfy. You will need a good clear map with your destination
on it; the drivers in Xian hardly speak or understand a word of English.
Free maps can be found in hotels but be sure to get one with English and
Chinese so the driver and you can both see where you are going. Volkswagens
are plentiful in China when it comes to taxis and Xian is no different.
Best option is to jump in a modern looking taxi, as there are many types
and sizes but all charge on the meter.
There are taxis
assigned to each hotel and will wait in the car park. They will want to
charge you RMB20 straight off and not use the meter. Use your best judgment
if they are generally safe and only squeezing you for money. Best thing
to do is just walk out onto the street if you don't want to pay the extra,
street pick up taxis will use the meter. Generally, the hotel taxis
are the most clean and comfortable.
Many taxis will offer you their personal business card so you can hire
them for a tour, transfer to airport, trip to the Terracotta warriors
and or any other tours and attractions. Use discretion, some of them look
and act friendlier than others. When they give you their card take note
of its design or write on it what you thought of them firsthand. It will
be invaluable when you come to choose which reliable taxi to call.
Almost all buses pass through south of the Bell Tower. City maps
have reliable bus routes and bus numbers so you'll know which bus goes
where. Still, taxis are more preferred for tourists as buses tend to be
crowded and the driving is a tad haphazard.
Many hotels offer bike rentals. On a good day, seeing the city
on a bicycle can be delightful as you can easily navigate through attractions
that are close to each other.
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Cyber
Xian
Internet Cafes are not immediately obvious when roaming the streets; hotels
instead offer good rates and sometimes even free access. Business centres
within the hotels will be the best setup for travellers but expect to pay
by half-hourly or hourly rate.
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Tours
Most of the city center attractions are linked closely and
can be reached by taxis or by foot whilst the sights that are quite far
from the city center are best accessed by organised tour buses.
In good clear weather, you might want to walk to the Great Mosque, Drum
and Bell Towers, Forest of Stone Steles Museum, Small Goose Pagoda, Shaanxi
History Museum and Big Goose Pagoda.
All the hotels have good concierge that can point you in the right direction
or even book a tour for you. Alternatively if you don't want to pay inflated
prices, book everything separately including taxi and entrance tickets.
It will save you money but entails a bit of planning so you won't run the
risk of being ripped off. Check details with concierge on how much things
are before you leave. By far, the easiest way is to book direct with hotel.
Side trips from Xian can also include one of China's five famous mountains,
Huashan, with its breathtaking views and tiring hike trails. One
can also opt to visit more Imperial tombs found in Xianyang, a half-hour's
bus ride.
Tourist season runs from May to September. In the winter months,
a great and warm way to see the city is through a taxi ride especially
at night. The city takes on a different appearance as the tree lined streets
have lights hung on them.
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Events
Xian's city walls are
decorated with brightly lit lanterns during the Lantern Festival
(Shan Yuan), which falls during the full course of the moon in February.
These lanterns take on various shapes and sizes highlighting one of the
traditional crafts in China.
All of China celebrates
Chinese New Year that falls around the end of January and the beginning
of February, parades featuring lion dances and firecrackers dot the streets
as all services and shops are closed for this major holiday. Hotels are,
needless to say, packed so do make advance bookings if you intend to visit
the city at this time of the year or during any of China's national holidays.
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Tourist
Info
The Tourist Administration
Office can be found at 159 Beiyuanmen. This office can be reached by telephone:
+86 (029) 7295632 or fax: +86 (029) 7295607. All major hotels offer a
tours desk, which is very useful for booking tours and excursions that
usually conveniently depart from the hotel.
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